{"id":9308,"date":"2018-09-18T11:00:45","date_gmt":"2018-09-18T10:00:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=9308"},"modified":"2018-09-20T18:41:54","modified_gmt":"2018-09-20T17:41:54","slug":"cadilar-ve-biralar-bamberg","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=9308","title":{"rendered":"Cad\u0131lar ve Biralar: Bamberg"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/a><\/a>Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

M\u00fczik: <\/em>George Frideric Handel-<\/em><\/strong><\/em>Sarabande
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Yery\u00fcz\u00fcnde, zaman\u0131n sanki durmu\u015f gibi g\u00f6z\u00fckt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ama \u00f6te yandan hayat\u0131n t\u00fcm canl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yerler vard\u0131r. Thomas More\u2019un\u00a0 \u201cGelenek, ate\u015fi miras b\u0131rakmakt\u0131r, k\u00fcllere tapmak de\u011fildir\u201d<\/em> s\u00f6zlerine nazire yaparcas\u0131na ge\u00e7mi\u015fin miras\u0131n\u0131 canl\u0131 tutan bir Frankonya \u015fehrinde bulduk kendimizi g\u00fcn biterken.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Almanya\u2019n\u0131n federal eyalet sisteminde, resmen bu isimde bir b\u00f6lge bulunmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in art\u0131k \u00e7o\u011fu Bavyera eyalet s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde kalm\u0131\u015f tarihi Frankonya kentlerinden en \u00f6nemlisi Bamberg. Kutsal Roma-Germen \u0130mparatoru II.Henrich\u2019nin ayr\u0131 bir piskoposluk ihdas etmesiyle baht\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131lan kent\u00a0 UNESCO D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde.<\/span><\/p>\n

Pek \u00e7ok \u00f6zelli\u011finin \u00f6tesinde bira severlere \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir tat sunan Bamberg\u2019te ilk dura\u011f\u0131n <\/span>Schlenkerla<\/em><\/strong> olmas\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131lmazd\u0131, ak\u015fam saatlerinde kente varan yorgun gezginler i\u00e7in.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u015eehrin alamet-i farikas\u0131 k\u0131saca Rauchbier <\/em>olarak an\u0131lan, tam ad\u0131 \u201c\u00d6zg\u00fcn Schlenkerla \u0130sli Biras\u0131\u201d<\/em> olan\u00a0 Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier<\/em><\/strong>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Mavi Aslan\u2019\u0131n Evi<\/em> isimli ilk mekana ilaveten, 19.y\u00fczy\u0131l ba\u015flar\u0131ndaki laikle\u015fme hareketiyle bir dominikan manast\u0131r\u0131ndan dev\u015firilmi\u015f b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerle geni\u015fleyen yap\u0131 1405 y\u0131l\u0131ndan bu yana ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 bira imalathanesi ve birahane olarak s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Rivayete g\u00f6re 1877\u2019de babas\u0131ndan devir alarak birahanenin ba\u015f\u0131na ge\u00e7en <\/strong>Andreas Grasser\u2019e, aksak y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcne atfen yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lan ve \u201csarho\u015f yalpas\u0131\u201d<\/em> anlam\u0131na gelen lakap, \u015fehrin en \u00fcnl\u00fc markas\u0131 oluvermi\u015f y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde: Schlenkerla.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\u0130lave gaz konmadan, bekletildi\u011fi geleneksel me\u015fe f\u0131\u00e7\u0131lardan do\u011frudan yer\u00e7ekimi etkisiyle bardaklara doldurulan Schlenkerla <\/em><\/strong>isli biralar\u0131na bu tad\u0131 veren esas olarak t\u00fcts\u00fclenmi\u015f malt. Frankonya, k\u00f6m\u00fcr madenlerinden fakir oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in end\u00fcstrile\u015fme s\u00fcrecinde yerinde sayan bu b\u00f6lgede yak\u0131t gereksinimi kay\u0131n ormanlar\u0131ndan sa\u011flanm\u0131\u015f uzunca bir s\u00fcre. Biraya \u00f6zg\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc kazand\u0131ran da bu olmu\u015f. Kay\u0131n odunuyla ate\u015flenen f\u0131r\u0131nlarda kurutulan malt kullan\u0131larak yap\u0131lan M\u00e4rzen<\/em> ve Urbock<\/em> gibi klasik isli bira \u00e7e\u015fitleri yan\u0131nda, az miktarda isli arpa malt\u0131 ilavesiyle yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bu\u011fday b<\/span>iras\u0131 Rauchweizen<\/em>, t\u00fcts\u00fclenmemi\u015f malt kullan\u0131lmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n isli malt\u0131n i\u015flendi\u011fi kazanlarda yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in belli belirsiz bir is tad\u0131 sunan Helles<\/em> <\/em><\/strong>Schlenkerla Lager;<\/em> Helles<\/em> <\/em><\/strong>Schlenkerla Lager<\/em>\u2019in doldurulmadan hemen \u00f6nce M\u00e4rzen<\/em> ile harmanlanmas\u0131yla elde edilen Kr\u00e4usen<\/em> gibi t\u00fcrleri de var. Sadece paskalya \u00f6ncesindeki oru\u00e7 d\u00f6neminde \u00fcretilen Schlenkerla Fastbier<\/em> ile\u00a0y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 \u00f6ncesinde kay\u0131n yerine me\u015fe odunu ile islendirilerek haz\u0131rlanan Schlenkerla Eiche <\/em>k\u0131sa s\u00fcreli\u011fine t\u00fcketime sunulan biralar.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

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Biralar\u0131 tad\u0131p d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca da i\u00e7erdeki keyif s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc ye\u015fil pancurlar\u0131 ve pencere \u00f6n\u00fc sardunyalar\u0131yla insana huzur veren tarihi yap\u0131n\u0131n a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 sokak ara\u00e7 trafi\u011fine kapal\u0131 ve bisikletleri saymazsak sadece yayalar\u0131n h\u00fck\u00fcmranl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, g\u00f6nl\u00fcnce yalpalamak serbest \u00e7ak\u0131r keyiflere de. <\/span><\/p>\n

Schlenkerla<\/em> d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda ba\u015fka da tarihi imalat\u00e7\u0131 birahaneler var Bamberg\u2019te.\u00a0 Uzun y\u0131llar ba\u015fpiskoposlar\u0131n m\u00fclkiyetinde kalm\u0131\u015f Klosterbr\u00e4u<\/em><\/strong>, Bamberg\u2019in en eskisi. Otuz y\u0131l sava\u015flar\u0131nda tamamen y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131p yak\u0131larak yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015f Mahrs Br\u00e4u<\/em>,<\/strong> t\u0131pas\u0131z f\u0131\u00e7\u0131larda bekletildi\u011fi i\u00e7in karbonik asidi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck olan, Almanlar\u0131n \u201cungespundet\u201d<\/em> dedikleri, \u201cale g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcml\u00fc lager\u201d <\/em>biras\u0131yla me\u015fhur.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>\"\"Reigntz nehrinin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda \u201c\u0130kinci Roma\u201d<\/em> olmas\u0131 hedeflenerek kurulmu\u015f Bamberg yedi tepeli bir \u015fehir. \u0130mparatorun bu iddias\u0131 <\/span>nedeniyle II.Heinrich, kar\u0131s\u0131 ve Papa II. Clement\u2019in \u00e7ok say\u0131da heykeliyle s\u00fcsl\u00fc devasa katedrali, biri bug\u00fcn m\u00fcze olarak i\u015flev g\u00f6ren eskisi (<\/span>Alte Rezidans) ve<\/em> sanat koleksiyonlar\u0131na ev sahipli\u011fi yapan yenisi (<\/span>Neue Rezidens) <\/em>ile iki piskoposluk saray\u0131, in\u015fa edildi\u011fi Saint Michael tepesinden ad\u0131n\u0131 alan benedikten manast\u0131r\u0131 Michaelsberg Abbey <\/em>o g\u00fcnlerden kalm\u0131\u015f yap\u0131lar. \u0130mparatorun erken \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc nedeniyle ancak k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre kutsal Roma imparatorlu\u011funun merkezi olabilmi\u015f Bamberg.\u00a0Sonras\u0131nda t\u00fcm\u00fcyle piskoposlar taraf\u0131ndan y\u00f6netilen kent 17.y\u00fczy\u0131lda Almanya\u2019daki cad\u0131l\u0131k davalar\u0131n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli merkezlerinden biri olup \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f. Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n koyu katolikli\u011fi, r\u00f6nesans ile zay\u0131flarken ge\u00e7mi\u015fin pagan al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131klar\u0131 ve inan\u00e7lar\u0131 su y\u00fcz\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f yeniden. Tar\u0131mdaki krizin, y\u00fcksek vergilerin ve pahal\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ekonomik s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131lar,\u00a0 bir mezhep kavgas\u0131 olan Otuz Y\u0131l Sava\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n ve <\/span>veba\u00a0 salg\u0131n\u0131n\u0131n <\/span> <\/span>yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 <\/span>tahribat, h\u0131zla geli\u015fen bas\u0131mevi faaliyetlerinin cad\u0131 av\u0131na yol a\u00e7acak ba\u011fnazl\u0131\u011f\u0131n yay\u0131lmas\u0131na da hizmet etmesi sonucu ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan toplumsal histeri binlerce insan\u0131n yak\u0131larak katledilmesine yol a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f o d\u00f6nemde. Sadece Bamberg\u2019te de\u011fil \u00fcstelik; W\u00fcrzburg, Hallstadt ve Zeil gibi di\u011fer Almanya kentlerinde de. Bamberg\u2019deki davalar\u0131n tutanaklar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ula\u015fmas\u0131 ise tamamen bir talih, bir tesad\u00fcf eseri. \u0130mha edilmek istenen dava belgeleri 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda bir toptanc\u0131ya hurda ka\u011f\u0131t olarak sat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. D\u00fckkandan sat\u0131n ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ivilerin sar\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu ka\u011f\u0131tlara g\u00f6z atan <\/span>Johann Adam Messerschmitt<\/em> adl\u0131 bir tarih\u00e7inin belgelerin \u00f6nemini fark ederek t\u00fcm ka\u011f\u0131tlar\u0131 sat\u0131n almas\u0131 sonucu Bamberg ar\u015fivinin raflar\u0131nda yerini alabilmi\u015f dava tutanaklar\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Kentin en g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131 binas\u0131 Reigntz nehrinin ortas\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor. \u015eehrin tek hakimi olan piskosposun yer tahsisi yapmama konusundaki inad\u0131 nedeniyle nehrin ortas\u0131nda\u00a0 kaz\u0131klar \u00e7ak\u0131larak olu\u015fturulan yapay bir adan\u0131n \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilen ve \u00fc\u00e7 yan\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcsleyen duvar resimleriyle g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131ran tarihi belediye binas\u0131 (Altes Rathaus<\/em>)\u00a0bu g\u00fcn \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f sanat eserlerinin ve de\u011ferli porselenlerin\u00a0 sergilendi\u011fi bir m\u00fcze olarak i\u015flev g\u00f6r\u00fcyor. Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 mahallesi olan nehir boyu ise\u00a0 orta\u00e7a\u011fdan kalma evlerin yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 manzaran\u0131n etkisiyle K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Venedik (<\/em>Klein Venedig<\/em>) ismiyle an\u0131l\u0131yor g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Bamberg di\u011fer Almanya kentlerine g\u00f6re talihli bir kent. \u0130kinci d\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131nda hi\u00e7 zarar g\u00f6rmemi\u015f ve kentteki t\u00fcm yap\u0131lar \u00f6zg\u00fcnl\u00fcklerini koruyor. Oysa ikinci d\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131na giden yolda \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir i\u015flev \u00fcstlenmi\u015f. Nazi partisi \u00f6rg\u00fctleri i\u00e7erisinde, kuzey ve g\u00fcney illeri aras\u0131ndaki ideolojik farkl\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 ve \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmay\u0131 ortadan kald\u0131rmak \u00fczere 14 \u015eubat 1926\u2019da bizzat Hitler\u2019in d\u00fczenledi\u011fi Bamberg konferans\u0131 \u00f6nce partinin ard\u0131ndan da devletin tek adam sultas\u0131na mahkum edilece\u011fi bir uzla\u015fmayla sonu\u00e7lanm\u0131\u015f: Fuhrerprinzip.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c7ok arzulad\u0131\u011f\u0131 f\u00fchrerli\u011fi bu toplant\u0131yla elde eden Adolf Hitler kendi ki\u015fisel tarihini yazm\u0131\u015f sonras\u0131nda. \u00dcnl\u00fc Alman filozofu Hegel\u2019in \u201cTarih asl\u0131nda, insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n su\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n, \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131nl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n ve felaketlerinin kayd\u0131ndan pek fazla bir \u015fey de\u011fildir; ama tecr\u00fcbenin bize \u00f6\u011fretti\u011fi odur ki, halklar ve devletler tarihten asla bir \u015fey \u00f6\u011frenmemi\u015flerdir\u201d<\/em> s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc do\u011frularcas\u0131na.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130lgin\u00e7tir, hen\u00fcz on yedi ya\u015f\u0131nda bir ergen iken mezuniyet konu\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 Osmanl\u0131 y\u00f6netimindeki Anadolu\u2019ya at\u0131fla \u201cT\u00fcrkiye\u2019de Sanat ve Bilimin Geri Kalm\u0131\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u201d<\/em> olarak se\u00e7en Hegel bir y\u0131l kadar bu \u015fehirde ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f. \u00a01807\u2019de Prusyal\u0131lara kar\u015f\u0131 zaferi sonras\u0131nda Napolyon taraf\u0131ndan i\u015fgal edilen Jena\u2019dan ayr\u0131l\u0131p Bamberg\u2019e gelen filozof \u015fehir gazetesinin (Bamberg Zeitun<\/em>g) edit\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc \u00fcstlenmi\u015f ve bir zamanlar yahudi dans\u00e7\u0131lara ev sahipli\u011fi yapan sonras\u0131nda da \u0131slahevi olarak hizmet vermi\u015f bir binada ge\u00e7irmi\u015f mecburi ikametini. Hegel’in ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve\u00a0 d\u0131\u015f cephesindeki \u0131stakoz\u00a0kabartmas\u0131 nedeniyle\u00a0 Haus zum Krebs <\/em>(Istakozlu Ev)\u00a0 olarak an\u0131lan yap\u0131 hala ayakta g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde. \u015eehirlerin yeni yeni geli\u015fmekte oldu\u011fu o zamanlarda kent n\u00fcfusunun \u00f6nemli bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc okur yazar olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan sokaklarda isim ya da numara yaz\u0131l\u0131 tabelalar kullan\u0131lmazm\u0131\u015f. Bu nedenle tarif kolayl\u0131\u011f\u0131 olsun diye\u00a0yap\u0131larda \u00e7o\u011funlukla hayvan\u00a0fig\u00fcr\u00fc\u00a0 kabartmalar bulunur ve bu s\u00fcslemelerine g\u00f6re isimlendirilirmi\u015f. <\/span><\/p>\n

Kesme ta\u015flarla d\u00f6\u015feli sokaklar\u0131nda\u00a0sakinlerinin ve merakl\u0131 gezginlerin dola\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 kendi halinde bir kasaba olan Bamberg’te tarihin \u00e7alkant\u0131lar\u0131ndan ve ge\u00e7mi\u015fin ac\u0131lar\u0131ndan eser yok art\u0131k. Ama bir zamanlar cad\u0131l\u0131kla su\u00e7lan\u0131p\u00a0yak\u0131lan kad\u0131nlardan\u00a0kalan\u00a0 bir miras olmal\u0131, keyifle yudumlanan biralar\u0131na sinmi\u015f is kokusu.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

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[ti_audio media=”9459″ autoplay=”1″ repeat=”1″]
\n<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan M\u00fczik: George Frideric Handel-Sarabande   Yery\u00fcz\u00fcnde, zaman\u0131n sanki durmu\u015f gibi g\u00f6z\u00fckt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ama \u00f6te yandan hayat\u0131n t\u00fcm canl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yerler vard\u0131r. Thomas More\u2019un\u00a0 \u201cGelenek, ate\u015fi miras b\u0131rakmakt\u0131r, k\u00fcllere tapmak de\u011fildir\u201d s\u00f6zlerine nazire yaparcas\u0131na ge\u00e7mi\u015fin miras\u0131n\u0131 canl\u0131 tutan bir Frankonya \u015fehrinde bulduk kendimizi g\u00fcn biterken.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9308","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-avrupa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9308","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9308"}],"version-history":[{"count":152,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9308\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9473,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9308\/revisions\/9473"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9308"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9308"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9308"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}