{"id":8415,"date":"2016-10-10T20:04:00","date_gmt":"2016-10-10T19:04:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=8415"},"modified":"2026-07-29T17:38:03","modified_gmt":"2026-07-29T14:38:03","slug":"arzin-merkezine-seyahat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=8415","title":{"rendered":"Arz\u0131n Merkezine Seyahat"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

Kuzeye do\u011fru Niflheim<\/strong> uzan\u0131rd\u0131, buz ve karla kapl\u0131<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Muspell<\/strong> vard\u0131 g\u00fcneyde, ate\u015f ve alevler i\u00e7inde kaynayan<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u0130kisinin aras\u0131ndaysa bir muazzam bo\u015fluk, Ginnungagap<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00a0<\/address>
Kuzeyden buraya zehirli bir nehir akard\u0131<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Akar akar donard\u0131<\/span><\/em><\/address>
K\u0131ra\u011f\u0131 ve buz olurdu tabaka tabaka<\/span><\/em><\/address>
G\u00fcneyden esen s\u0131cak yel eritti buzu damla damla<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/address>
O damlayla ba\u015flad\u0131 hayat<\/span><\/em><\/address>
U\u011fursuz orman devlerinin ilki<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Ymir<\/strong> v\u00fccut buldu damlalardan<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00a0<\/address>
\u0130lk insan B\u00fcri<\/strong> ise bir kayada \u015fekillendi<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00d6nce sa\u00e7lar\u0131, sonra kafas\u0131<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Ve \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc g\u00fcn\u00fcn sonunda t\u00fcm g\u00f6vdesiyle<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/address>
B\u00fcri<\/strong>\u2019nin torunlar\u0131, Odin<\/strong> ile karde\u015fleri<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Cenk edip \u00f6ld\u00fcrd\u00fc devlerin babas\u0131n\u0131<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Ve devlerin saltanat\u0131 sona ererken<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Ginnungagap<\/strong>\u2019a at\u0131lan devin cans\u0131z bedeninden yery\u00fcz\u00fc oldu<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00a0<\/address>
Kan\u0131 su oldu okyanuslara, eti toprak<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Kemiklerinden da\u011flar, di\u015flerinden kayalar<\/span><\/em><\/address>
Sa\u00e7lar\u0131ndan \u00e7ay\u0131rlar ve a\u011fa\u00e7lar do\u011fdu*<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00a0<\/address>
*Prose Edda (Slav mitolojisi)<\/span><\/em><\/address>
\u00a0<\/em><\/span><\/address>\n

\u00a0<\/em><\/span>Yarad\u0131l\u0131\u015f \u00f6yk\u00fcleri \u00e7o\u011funlukla birbirine benzer ilahi metinlerde. Kuzeyin hikayesinin \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 ise a\u015fina olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bir co\u011frafyay\u0131 bu denli iyi betimlemesinden olsa gerek.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Kuzey kutup s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131 olarak bilinen arktik enlemin (66<\/span>o<\/sup>) hemen yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda bir ada \u00fclkesi olan \u0130zlanda\u2019da ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze, \u00fclkenin en pop\u00fcler gezi g\u00fczergah\u0131 olan <\/span>Alt\u0131n Halka<\/em> (<\/span>Golden Circle<\/em>) ile ba\u015flad\u0131k. Bu, <\/span>Reykjavik<\/em>\u2019ten kuzeydo\u011fu y\u00f6n\u00fcnde ilerleyerek ba\u015flayan ve g\u00fcney-g\u00fcney bat\u0131 aks\u0131ndan d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fle sonlanan ve bir g\u00fcn ayr\u0131lmas\u0131 gereken bir yolculuk.<\/span><\/p>\n

Ba\u015fkent Reykjavik<\/em>\u2019ten ayr\u0131larak \u00fclkeyi \u00e7epe\u00e7evre dolanan ve tekrar ba\u015fkente ba\u011flanan \u00a01 numaral\u0131 devlet karayoluna s\u00fcrd\u00fck arac\u0131m\u0131z\u0131. Azami h\u0131z limiti 90 km\/saat olan ve kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 bir \u015ferit geli\u015f ve bir \u015ferit gidi\u015ften olu\u015fan bu yoldan saparak ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00a0Alt\u0131n Halk<\/em>a’da ilk durak\u00a0Thingvellir<\/em><\/strong> Ulusal Park\u0131. UNESCO\u2019nun d\u00fcnya miras\u0131 listesinde bulunan Thingvellir<\/em>\u2019in \u00f6nemi yery\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn en eski meclislerinden birine ev sahipli\u011fi yapmas\u0131ndan ileri geliyor. \u0130zlanda uluslar toplulu\u011fu \u00fcyelerinden olu\u015fan ve\u00a0Althing<\/em> olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan meclis 930 -1232 y\u0131llar\u0131 \u00a0aras\u0131nda bu d\u00fczl\u00fcklerde toplanm\u0131\u015f d\u00fczenli olarak. \u00dclkenin d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131ndan gelen kabile \u015feflerinin kat\u0131l\u0131m\u0131yla toplanan mecliste yap\u0131lan g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmeler sonunda al\u0131nan kararlar ve uzla\u015f\u0131lan yasalar, <\/span>L\u00f6gberg (Kanun Kayas\u0131) <\/em>ad\u0131 verilen bir kayal\u0131k \u00fczerinden ilan edilirmi\u015f o vakitler.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Tarihi ve do\u011fal g\u00fczelli\u011fi d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda jeolojik \u00f6nemi de var b\u00f6lgenin. Kuzey Amerika ve Avrasya tektonik levhalar\u0131n\u0131n ayr\u0131lmas\u0131yla sonu\u00e7lanan k\u0131tasal yar\u0131lma \u0130zlanda\u2019y\u0131 kuzeyden g\u00fcneybat\u0131ya y\u00f6nelen bir kavisle katederken bunun yedi kilometresi\u00a0Thingvellir<\/em>\u2019den ge\u00e7iyor. K\u0131tasal yar\u0131lman\u0131n izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan kanyon boyunca y\u00fcr\u00fcmek d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda buzullardan gelen so\u011fuk ve berrak sularla dolu\u00a0Silfra<\/em> yar\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, her y\u0131l birbirlerinden 2 cm uzakla\u015fan k\u0131talar aras\u0131nda dal\u0131\u015f yapmak da m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yola devam edip \u00a060 km kadar ilerleyince kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za yer yer y\u00fckselen buharlar \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131 birden. Buras\u0131 gayzerleriyle \u00fcnl\u00fc bir jeotermal alan. Yer alt\u0131ndan aral\u0131kl\u0131 olarak f\u0131\u015fk\u0131ran bu s\u0131cak su p\u00fcsk\u00fcrmelerinin gayzer olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131n k\u00f6keni bu b\u00f6lge asl\u0131nda. \u0130zlanda lisan\u0131nda \u201cf\u0131\u015fk\u0131ran kuyu\u201d<\/em> anlam\u0131na gelen\u00a0Geysir<\/em> s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fc \u00a0bu b\u00f6lgedeki en eski gayzerin ad\u0131 <\/span>ayn\u0131 zamanda<\/span>. Geysir<\/em>,<\/em><\/strong> bir zamanlar 60-70 metre y\u00fckse\u011fe p\u00fcsk\u00fcren etkileyici bir gayzer iken zaman i\u00e7inde depremlerin etkisiyle etkinli\u011fi azalm\u0131\u015f, suskunla\u015fm\u0131\u015f. \u015eimdilerde biraz ilerisinde yer alan <\/span>Strokkur<\/em> gayzeri \u00e7ok daha faal, her 6-8 dakikada bir 30 metre y\u00fckse\u011fe p\u00fcsk\u00fcrmesi nedeniyle bir insan kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131yla \u00e7epe\u00e7evre her daim. Vadide bu ikisi d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck gayzerler, \u00e7amur banyolar\u0131 ve k\u00fck\u00fcrtl\u00fc buharlar t\u00fctt\u00fcren bacalar da mevcut. Biraz t\u0131rmanmay\u0131 g\u00f6ze alanlar\u0131 ise ilerideki tepenin ard\u0131nda jeotermal alan\u0131n \u00fcrk\u00fct\u00fcc\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcne tezat yemye\u015fil bir vadi manzaras\u0131 bekliyor.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

Gayzerlere on dakika uzakl\u0131kta bir mesafede ise\u00a0Gulfoss<\/em> \u015felalesi (Alt\u0131n \u015eelaleler<\/em>) yer al\u0131yor. \u00dc\u00e7 ayr\u0131 kademe halinde derin bir yar\u0131\u011fa d\u00f6k\u00fclen bu \u015felale Alt\u0131n Halka<\/em>‘n\u0131n son esasl\u0131 par\u00e7as\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

Zaten \u0130zlanda bir \u015felaleler \u00fclkesi. Gezi g\u00fczergah\u0131nda her g\u00fcne en az bir b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015felale d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. \u0130kinci g\u00fcn\u00fcn sabah\u0131nda g\u00fcneydo\u011fu y\u00f6n\u00fcnden ilerleyerek aday\u0131 \u00e7epe\u00e7evre dola\u015fma hedefiyle yola \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca g\u00fcneyin 3 b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015felalesi\u00a0Seljalandfoss<\/em>,\u00a0Skarifoss<\/em> ve\u00a0Skogafoss<\/em>\u2019u g\u00f6rmeden ge\u00e7mek olmazd\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Y\u0131llar \u00f6nce Avrupa hava ula\u015f\u0131m trafi\u011fini kesintiye u\u011fratmas\u0131 ile \u00fcnl\u00fc yanarda\u011f,\u00a0Eyjafjallaj\u00f6k\u00fcl<\/em> eteklerinden d\u00f6k\u00fclen\u00a0Seljalandfoss,<\/em> gerisinde bulunan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ma\u011faraya girerek \u015felalenin arkas\u0131ndan y\u00fcr\u00fcme olana\u011f\u0131 sunmas\u0131 nedeniyle \u00e7ok \u00e7ok pop\u00fcler. Biraz ilerisinde\u00a0Gljubfrabuifoss<\/em> olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan daha ince bir \u015felale daha var.<\/span><\/p>\n

Skaftafel <\/em>ulusal park\u0131nda 2 kilometrelik y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fle ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z, bir heykelt\u0131ra\u015f elinden \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnen, fakat asl\u0131nda lavlar\u0131n so\u011furken kas\u0131l\u0131p k\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131yla olu\u015fan hekzagonal bazalt s\u00fctunlardan s\u00fcz\u00fclen <\/span>Svartifoss (Kara \u015eelale)<\/em> ile Skogar<\/em> nehrinin g\u00f6rkemine uygun ihti\u015fam\u0131yla arkas\u0131nda 30 kadar \u015felale ve \u00e7avlan b\u0131rakarak 60 metre y\u00fcksekten s\u00fcz\u00fclen, \u00a015 metre geni\u015fli\u011findeki <\/span>Skogafoss<\/em> (Orman \u015eelalesi)<\/em> g\u00fcney do\u011fu hatt\u0131nda g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken ba\u015fl\u0131ca \u015felaleler. Bunlar d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda t\u00fcm aday\u0131 dola\u015fan g\u00fczergah boyunca irili ufakl\u0131 pek \u00e7ok \u015felale g\u00fczel bir yol manzaras\u0131 sunuyor gezginlere.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

G\u00fcneydo\u011fu aks\u0131ndaki yolculu\u011fumuzda bir g\u00fcn ay\u0131r\u0131p ge\u00e7meye vakit bulamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u00a0Westmann<\/em> tak\u0131m adalar\u0131n\u0131 da\u00a0(Westmannejjar)<\/em> en az\u0131ndan k\u0131y\u0131dan g\u00f6relim diyerek yoldan sap\u0131yoruz. Kapkara bir kumsal\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda karanl\u0131k k\u00fctleler halinde duran tak\u0131madalara bak\u0131yoruz uzaktan. Bu adalar \u00fcreme d\u00f6nemlerinde g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131 renkleriyle me\u015fhur, \u0130zlandal\u0131lar\u0131n\u00a0Lundi<\/em> dedi\u011fi, \u0130ngilizcede\u00a0Puffin<\/em> olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan deniz ku\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n yerle\u015fim yeri olmas\u0131 nedeniyle bir cazibe merkezi. Ancak adalar\u0131n \u0130zlanda tarihi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan ayr\u0131 bir \u00f6nemi var.<\/span><\/p>\n

Asl\u0131\u00a0Jan Janszoon von<\/em> Harlem<\/em> isimli Hollandal\u0131 bir korsan iken esir d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fckten sonra din ve isim de\u011fi\u015ftirerek i\u015fine devam eden Murat Reis komutas\u0131ndaki korsanlar o devir Osmanl\u0131 egemenli\u011findeki Cezayir\u2019den yelken a\u00e7t\u0131klar\u0131 d\u00f6rt gemiyle \u0130zlanda\u2019ya ula\u015ft\u0131klar\u0131nda, \u00f6nce \u00a0bu adalara \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015flar, bir s\u00fcre sonra da Reykjanes<\/em> yar\u0131madas\u0131ndaki\u00a0Grindavik<\/em> liman\u0131na. 1627 y\u0131l\u0131n\u0131n Haziran-Temmuz aylar\u0131nda yirmi alt\u0131 g\u00fcn s\u00fcren bask\u0131n\u0131n ganimeti olarak g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fckleri \u0130zlandal\u0131lar esir pazarlar\u0131nda sat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f korsanlar taraf\u0131ndan ve pek az \u0130zlandal\u0131 geri d\u00f6nebilmi\u015f \u00fclkesine \u00e7ok y\u0131llar sonra. \u0130zlandal\u0131lar ge\u00e7mi\u015flerine damga vuran bu olay\u0131\u00a0T\u00fcrk Bask\u0131n\u0131<\/em> (Tyrkjar\u00e1ni\u00f0)<\/strong><\/em> olarak an\u0131yorlar olay\u0131 hala. Bu olay sonras\u0131nda \u0130zlanda\u2019da bulunan T\u00fcrklerin \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclmesine olanak veren bir yasa bile \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ama 1970\u2019lerde y\u00fcr\u00fcrl\u00fckten kalkm\u0131\u015f neyse ki.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130zlanda yolculu\u011fumuzda \u015felaleler d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda da pek \u00e7ok g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131 manzaraya tan\u0131k olduk. En etkileyicilerinden biriyse saat gece yar\u0131s\u0131na yakla\u015f\u0131rken tan vakti ayd\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda sapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z toprak yolda sis \u00e7\u00f6km\u00fc\u015f bir lav tarlas\u0131nda ilerleyi\u015fimizdi.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

M\u00d6 1783\u2019de patlamaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f Laki yanarda\u011f\u0131 ve 8 ay s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f lav kusmas\u0131. Buzul \u00e7a\u011f\u0131 sonras\u0131nda yery\u00fcz\u00fcndeki bu\u00a0 en b\u00fcy\u00fck lav hareketlili\u011fi 600 kilometrekare b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcndeki Eldhraun<\/em> lav tarlas\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturmu\u015f. Zaman i\u00e7erisinde lavlar\u0131n \u00fczerini kaplayan kara yosunlar\u0131n\u0131n kuruyken soluk, \u0131slakken canl\u0131 ye\u015fil rengi tek bir a\u011fac\u0131n olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu d\u00fczl\u00fckte hayat\u0131n galebe \u00e7almas\u0131n\u0131n yegane i\u015fareti. Vatna<\/em> buzulundan s\u00fcz\u00fclen sular\u0131n \u00a0olu\u015fturdu\u011fu deltadaki \u00e7e\u015fit \u00e7e\u015fit ku\u015fun \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131 sesler de cabas\u0131 elbet. O y\u00fczden \u0131ss\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ortas\u0131ndaki bu yere \u00a0hat\u0131r\u0131 say\u0131l\u0131r ra\u011fbet var <\/span>ku\u015f g\u00f6zlemcileri taraf\u0131ndan.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\"\"<\/a>Yery\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k ge\u00e7mi\u015finden g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze miras buzullar ise \u0130zlanda\u2019n\u0131n bir ba\u015fka do\u011fa harikas\u0131. \u0130lk kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Eyjafjallaj\u00f6k\u00fcl\u2019<\/em> \u00fcn bir uzant\u0131s\u0131yd\u0131. Buzul denince akla gelen beyazl\u0131kla hi\u00e7 ba\u011fda\u015fmayan siyah-gri k\u00fctlelerle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmak \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 oldu ba\u015fta ama sonradan bunlar\u0131n y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde r\u00fczgar ve ya\u011fmur etkisiyle i\u00e7ine toprak ve mineral i\u015flemi\u015f buz k\u00fctleleri olduklar\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011frendik. Beklentiden do\u011fan \u00f6nyarg\u0131m\u0131zdan kurtulunca \u201ckirli\u201d buzullar\u0131n etraf\u0131n\u0131 dola\u015fman\u0131n, \u00fczerinde birka\u00e7 ad\u0131m atman\u0131n keyfine \u00e7abucak vard\u0131k. \u00a0Ertesi g\u00fcn gitti\u011fimiz Jokulsarlon<\/em> buzul g\u00f6l\u00fc ise beklentimizi fazla fazla kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde y\u00fczen mavimsi beyaz buz k\u00fctleleriyle.\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

J\u00f6kulsarlon<\/em> buzul g\u00f6l\u00fc \u0130zlanda y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn %13\u2019\u00fcn\u00fc kaplayan devasa <\/span>Vatnaj\u00f6k\u00fcl<\/em> buzulundan beslenen bir g\u00f6l. Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ulusal park\u0131 olan<\/span>Vatnaj\u00f6k\u00fcl<\/em> i\u00e7erdi\u011fi biyolojik t\u00fcrler yan\u0131nda zengin jeolojik \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fi nedeniyle de korunma alt\u0131nda. \u00a0Fakat tehlike \u00e7anlar\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131yor yine de. 19.y\u00fczy\u0131l sonundan bu yana k\u00fctlesinin %10\u2019unu kaybeden Vatnaj\u00f6k\u00fcl,<\/em> sadece son 10 y\u0131lda ise% 3 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

G\u00fcney\u2019de son gezilecek yerler\u00a0H\u00f6fn<\/em> kenti yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda bir yar\u0131mada; deniz ku\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n yuvalanma ve kulu\u00e7ka alan\u0131 olan Dyrholaey<\/em> kayal\u0131klar\u0131 ile ona biti\u015fik siyah kumsal\u0131n \u00f6tesinde \u00a0bazalt kayal\u0131klar\u0131yla kendini g\u00f6steren\u00a0Reynisdragar.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

M\u00fctevazi bir bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 kasabas\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcndeki H\u00f6fn<\/em> g\u00fcneyde konaklanabilecek veya mola verilecek son kent. Bundan sonras\u0131nda do\u011fu fiyordlar\u0131 ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Yaz aylar\u0131nda g\u00fcn\u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n kaybolmamas\u0131ndan yararlanarak yola devam ediyoruz. Gecenin ge\u00e7 ama ayd\u0131nl\u0131k saatlerinde bir fiyord k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131 kasabas\u0131 olan\u00a0Stodfarfj\u00f6rd\u00fcr<\/em>\u2019de konaklad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda bir s\u00fcre sonra bast\u0131ran sis ve g\u00fcne\u015fin bulutlar aras\u0131nda kaybolmas\u0131yla olu\u015fan alacakaranl\u0131k yaz ortas\u0131nda bir kuzey \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131 mucizesi \u00fcmidi uyand\u0131rsa da nafile.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Ertesi g\u00fcn \u0130zlanda\u2019n\u0131n do\u011fu \u015fehri\u00a0Egilsstadir<\/em>\u2019de k\u0131sa bir moladan sonra kenarlar\u0131nda koyunlar\u0131n ve g\u00f6steri\u015fli \u0130zlanda atlar\u0131n\u0131n yay\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yolda manzaran\u0131n tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kararak kuzeye y\u00f6neliyoruz. Yoldan biraz saparak \u00f6zg\u00fcn bir \u0130zlanda kasabas\u0131 g\u00f6rme umuduyla girdi\u011fimiz geni\u015f bir \u00e7ay\u0131r\u0131n ortas\u0131ndaki \u00a0Bustarfell\u2019<\/em>de \u00e7at\u0131lar\u0131 \u00e7imlerle kapl\u0131, \u00a0biti\u015fik nizam k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 renkli \u00e7iftlik evleri \u0130zlanda k\u0131rsal\u0131ndaki ya\u015fam\u0131n sadeli\u011fini hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor bir kez daha.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130zlanda’n\u0131n kuzeyi, Reykjavik<\/em> \u00e7evresi ve g\u00fcney k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131 kadar pop\u00fcler turist g\u00fczergahlar\u0131ndan de\u011fil, daha \u00e7ok merakl\u0131s\u0131na. Kuzeye do\u011fru yol al\u0131rken, her taraf\u0131ndan buharlar t\u00fcten sar\u0131 kahverengi geni\u015f toprak par\u00e7as\u0131na ayak bast\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda farkl\u0131 bir gezegene gelmi\u015f gibi hissettik ister istemez.<\/span><\/p>\n

Uzaklarda zirveleri karl\u0131 yanarda\u011flar\u0131n sil\u00fcetleri, zaman\u0131nda lavlar p\u00fcsk\u00fcrd\u00fck\u00e7e etrafa savrulmu\u015f kaya par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131n aras\u0131nda\u00a0durup durup fokurdayan \u00e7amur g\u00f6lleri,\u00a0\u00e7atlam\u0131\u015f topraktan kulak t\u0131rmalayan bir u\u011fultuyla biteviye k\u00fck\u00fcrtl\u00fc buhar f\u0131\u015fk\u0131rtan bacalar\u0131, \u00fczerinde buharlar t\u00fcten s\u0131cak su birikintileri ile Namafjall<\/em>, \u0130zlanda’n\u0131n benzersiz manzaralar\u0131ndan biri \u00a0olarak kaz\u0131nd\u0131 haf\u0131zam\u0131za.<\/span><\/p>\n

Namafjall, Maden da\u011f\u0131<\/em> anlam\u0131na geliyor. Zaten \u0130zlanda\u2019da yer isimlerinde co\u011frafi \u00f6zellikler \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor genellikle. \u015eelaleler –foss<\/em>, buzullar \u00a0-j\u00f6k\u00fcll<\/em>, \u00a0g\u00f6ller –vatn<\/em>, da\u011flar \u2013fjall,<\/em> koylar, k\u00f6rfezler ise -vik<\/em> eki al\u0131yor.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

Namafjall<\/em> isminin hakk\u0131n\u0131 veren yerlerden bu nedenle. Zengin k\u00fck\u00fcrt kaynaklar\u0131 nedeniyle barut yap\u0131m\u0131nda \u00f6nemliymi\u015f \u00e7ok eskiden. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczdeyse dinamitten di\u015f macununa, ila\u00e7tan gazeteye, yap\u0131 izolasyonundan bira filtrasyonuna kadar \u00e7ok geni\u015f bir kullan\u0131m alan\u0131na sahip bir dolgu maddesi olan\u00a0 diatomit<\/em> \u00fcretiminde yararlan\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f bu b\u00f6lgedeki maden yataklar\u0131ndan.<\/span><\/p>\n

Nmafjall<\/em>\u2019\u0131 geride b\u0131rak\u0131r b\u0131rakmaz kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za koca bir g\u00f6l, Myvatn<\/em> \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Fakat yak\u0131ndaki kapl\u0131calarda y\u00fczme d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesi a\u011f\u0131r bas\u0131nca g\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki gezintimizi erteleyiverdik hemen.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130zlanda\u2019da en tan\u0131nm\u0131\u015f a\u00e7\u0131k hava kapl\u0131cas\u0131 Reykjavik<\/em>\u2019ten 40 kilometre kadar uzakta bulunan Mavi G\u00f6l\u00a0 (Blue Lagoon)<\/em> \u0130zlanda’ya gelen herkesin olmazsa olmaz\u0131. Gezimizin ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131nda, Reykjanes<\/em> yar\u0131madas\u0131nda e\u015fsiz bir lav tarlas\u0131n\u0131n ortas\u0131nda, bir jeotermal enerji santral\u0131n\u0131n at\u0131k suyuyla yapay olarak olu\u015fturulmu\u015f Mavi G\u00f6l\u00fc<\/em>, a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 kalabal\u0131k ve gereksiz pahal\u0131 bir turist tuza\u011f\u0131 olarak tescil etti\u011fimiz i\u00e7in bu kez f\u0131rsat\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131rmak istemedik. G\u00f6l manzaras\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k havada, s\u0131cak sularda birka\u00e7 saat ge\u00e7irdikten sonra g\u00fcnlerdir yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z uzun y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015flerin yorgunlu\u011fundan eser kalmad\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Kapl\u0131ca keyfinin ard\u0131ndan k\u0131sa bir yolculukla vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z k\u0131y\u0131 kasabas\u0131 H\u00fcsavik<\/em>, \u0130zlanda\u2019daki ilk yerle\u015fim yerlerinden birisi. Denize bakan bir tepede\u00a0 20.y\u00fczy\u0131l ba\u015f\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ah\u015fap kilisesi, \u00a0k\u0131y\u0131da bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 tekneleri ile balina g\u00f6zlem teknelerinin demirledi\u011fi liman\u0131yla sevimli, sakin bir yerle\u015fim yeri. K\u0131y\u0131da ah\u015fap yap\u0131lardan birindeki isim tabelas\u0131 dikkatimizi \u00e7ekti: Gaml\u0131 Baukur.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130zlanda lisan\u0131nda yer isimlerini telaffuz etmek zor geldi\u011finden hemencecik Gaml\u0131 Bayku\u015f<\/em> demeyi tercih etti\u011fimiz m\u00fcessese 1884’de kurulmu\u015f H\u00fcsavik<\/em>\u2019te, \u015fimdiki yerinden az \u00f6tede. K\u0131y\u0131daki yerle\u015fimi ve ah\u015fap teras\u0131yla \u00e7ok cazip geldi\u011finden Gaml\u0131 Bayku\u015f’<\/em>un teras\u0131ndaki\u00a0 tahta masalara \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fcverdik derhal, keyifli bir yeme i\u00e7me seans\u0131 i\u00e7in.<\/span><\/p>\n

Ertesi\u00a0sabah eski model bir tekneyle denize a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131k limandan. \u0130zlanda\u2019da pop\u00fcler turist etkinlikleri aras\u0131nda balina g\u00f6zlemi \u00f6nemli yer tutuyor. Balina g\u00f6zlem turlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu Reykjavik<\/em> kalk\u0131\u015fl\u0131 olsa da bu i\u015f i\u00e7in en uygun yer H\u00fcsavi<\/em>k. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc kasaban\u0131n k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131na kuruldu\u011fu Skjalfandi <\/em>k\u00f6rfezine iki farkl\u0131 noktadan akan nehirlerin kar\u0131\u015fan ak\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 deniz dibini kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rarak planktonlar\u0131, planktonlar krilleri, kriller ise balinalar\u0131 \u00e7ekiyormu\u015f k\u00f6rfeze. \u00dcstelik Reykjavik<\/em>\u2019ten farkl\u0131 olarak burada balina av\u0131 da yap\u0131lm\u0131yor ve g\u00f6zlem teknelerindeki rehberler gezginlerden \u0130zlanda\u2019da balina eti yememelerini istiyorlar<\/span> \u0131srarla<\/span> .<\/span><\/p>\n

Skjalfandi <\/em>k\u00f6rfezindeki 3-4 saat s\u00fcren tur s\u0131ras\u0131nda olduk\u00e7a yak\u0131ndan birka\u00e7 kambur balina ile farkl\u0131 t\u00fcrde birka\u00e7 yunus s\u00fcr\u00fcs\u00fc g\u00f6rme f\u0131rsat\u0131 yakalad\u0131k. \u0130zlandal\u0131lar\u0131n denizin palya\u00e7olar\u0131 olarak tan\u0131mlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 lundi <\/em>(puffin<\/em>)\u2019lerin yuvaland\u0131\u011f\u0131 Lundey <\/em>adas\u0131 \u00e7evresinden dola\u015farak tamamlad\u0131k <\/span>turu<\/span> .<\/span><\/p>\n

H\u00fcsavik\u2019<\/em>e kadar gelmeyi ba\u015faran gezginler i\u00e7in Reykjavik<\/em>\u2019teki Alt\u0131n Halk<\/em>a benzeri bir Elmas Halka<\/em> (Diamond Circle<\/em>) g\u00fczergah\u0131 var. Bu g\u00fczergahda \u00a0Myvatn<\/em> g\u00f6l\u00fc ve\u00a0Asbyrgi<\/em> kanyonu <\/span>ile\u00a0iki b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015felale,\u00a0Detifoss<\/em> ile \u00a0Godafoss <\/em><\/span>var g\u00f6r\u00fclecek ba\u015fl\u0131ca yerler aras\u0131nda.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Myvatn<\/em>, Krafla<\/em> yanarda\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u015fekillendirdi\u011fi bir co\u011frafyada geni\u015f bir alana yay\u0131lan s\u0131\u011f bir g\u00f6l. \u00c7evresinde ge\u00e7mi\u015f volkanik hareketlili\u011fin izleri bolca var. Kara Kaleler<\/em> anlam\u0131na gelen Dimmuborgir<\/em>\u2019de bir lav labirenti i\u00e7inde kaybolmak bir s\u00fcreli\u011fine ya da g\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda \u00e7ok say\u0131da yalanc\u0131 kraterin aras\u0131nda gezinerek buna tan\u0131kl\u0131k etmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Minyat\u00fcr volkan a\u011f\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcml\u00fc kraterler yer alt\u0131ndaki lav dereleri ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fan suyun ani \u0131s\u0131 art\u0131\u015f\u0131yla h\u0131zla buharla\u015f\u0131p yery\u00fcz\u00fcne p\u00fcsk\u00fcrd\u00fckleri yerler. Myvatn<\/em> k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda ve g\u00f6l i\u00e7indeki adalarda bolca bulunan bu olu\u015fumlara bu y\u00fczden “yalanc\u0131 krater<\/em>” ad\u0131 veriliyor ve ger\u00e7ek bir lav ak\u0131\u015f\u0131 olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in otlarla kapl\u0131 yemye\u015fil y\u00fczeyleri g\u00f6lle birlikte ho\u015f bir manzara olu\u015fturuyor.<\/span><\/p>\n

Asbyrgi<\/em> kanyonu ise kuzeyin ba\u015f tanr\u0131s\u0131 Odin<\/em>\u2019in sekiz bacakl\u0131 at\u0131 Sleippir<\/em>\u2019 ile ili\u015fkilendirilmekte efsanelerde. Bunu en b\u00fcy\u00fck nedeni, bir kilometreyi a\u015fan geni\u015flikteki kanyonun toplam uzunlu\u011fu 3,5 kilometreyi bulan dev bir at nal\u0131 \u015feklinde olmas\u0131. Efsanelerde yeralt\u0131 ve yer \u00fcst\u00fc aras\u0131nda gidip gelen \u015famanik bir varl\u0131k olarak tasvir edilen \u00a0Sleipnir<\/em>\u2019in toynak darbesiyle \u015fekillendi\u011fi rivayet edilen 100 metrelik bir duvar y\u00fcksekli\u011fine sahip kanyon, volkanik bir patlama sonras\u0131 Vatnaj\u00f6k\u00fcl<\/em> buzulunun erimesiyle olu\u015fan sel sular\u0131n\u0131n muazzam kuvvetiyle olu\u015fmu\u015f jeologlara g\u00f6re.<\/span><\/p>\n

Semavi dinlerin apokrif metinlerinde Adem\u2019in ilk e\u015fi olarak yarat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve erke\u011fe biat etmeyi reddederek cenneti terk edip \u00f6l\u00fcms\u00fcz oldu\u011fu anlat\u0131lan Lilith<\/em>\u2019e ili\u015fkin s\u00f6ylenceler burada da yer etmi\u015f \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 bi\u00e7imde. Asybirgi<\/em> kanyonunda sakl\u0131 insanlar\u0131n (Huldufolk)<\/em> ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f y\u00fczy\u0131llarca. Lilith<\/em>\u2019in \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 oldu\u011fu ve kanyonun derinliklerinde kimselere g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeden ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131lan bu varl\u0131klar\u0131n, \u0130skandinav ve Germen mitolojisinde kimi zaman sevecen ve iyi y\u00fcrekli, kimi zamansa hilekar ve tehlikeli yarat\u0131klar olarak betimlenen Elfler<\/em> oldu\u011fu da s\u00f6ylenmekte.<\/span><\/p>\n

Asbyrgi<\/em> kanyonunun 40 kilometre g\u00fcneyinde yer alan Detifoss,<\/em> Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n debisi en y\u00fcksek \u015felalesi. B\u00fcy\u00fck bir g\u00fc\u00e7le d\u00f6k\u00fclen sular\u0131 Jokulsa<\/em> kanyonu boyunca ilerleyerek Asbyrgi<\/em>\u2019nin ilerisinden denize d\u00f6k\u00fclmekte. \u0130smi de g\u00fcc\u00fcyle ilgili \u015felalenin. Detifoss “Y\u0131kan-Deviren \u015eelale”<\/em> anlam\u0131na gelmekte.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Godafoss<\/em> ise \u0130zlanda\u2019da pagan inanc\u0131n hakim oldu\u011fu y\u0131llarda Thingvellir<\/em> meclisinin etkin kabile \u015feflerinden birisinin -meclis toplant\u0131s\u0131ndan evine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fte- t\u00fcm \u0130zlanda\u2019da hristiyanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 egemen k\u0131lma karar\u0131yla putlar\u0131n\u0131 f\u0131rlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015felale oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in Tanr\u0131lar \u015eelalesi<\/em> olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n

Arazi arac\u0131yla yolculuk yapanlar i\u00e7in Asbyrgi <\/em>ile Detifoss <\/em>aras\u0131ndaki ta\u015fl\u0131 yol bir ba\u015fka do\u011fa harikas\u0131na ula\u015fma f\u0131rsat\u0131 sunuyor: Hljodaklettar<\/em> yani F\u0131s\u0131ldayan kayal\u0131klar<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/em>Detifoss<\/em>\u2019dan d\u00f6k\u00fclen sular\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu nehir boyunca uzanan bu kayal\u0131klar\u0131n yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 <\/span>Jokulsa<\/em> kanyonu \u0130zlanda\u2019n\u0131n palagonit ku\u015fa\u011f\u0131nda uzan\u0131yor. K\u0131zg\u0131n lavlar\u0131n eriyen buzullardan gelen sularla ani temas\u0131yla volkanik bazalt\u0131n camla\u015fmas\u0131 olarak tan\u0131mlanabilecek palagonitle\u015fmenin en g\u00fczel \u00f6rneklerini sergiliyor F\u0131s\u0131ldayan Kayal\u0131klar<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Kuzey \u0130zlanda\u2019daki yolculu\u011fumuzu sonland\u0131rmadan \u00f6nce g\u00f6r\u00fclecek son yer Akureyri<\/em>. \u0130zlanda\u2019n\u0131n ba\u015fkentten sonra en fazla n\u00fcfus yo\u011funlu\u011funa sahip \u015fehri. Bu nedenle kuzeyin ba\u015fkenti olarak da an\u0131l\u0131yor. Co\u011frafik konumu ve \u00f6zellikleri nedeniyle nispeten daha \u0131l\u0131man bir iklime sahip oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in kuzeyin cazibe merkezi olmu\u015f. \u0130kinci d\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131 y\u0131llar\u0131nda m\u00fcttefik kuvvetleri i\u00e7in g\u00fcvenli bir \u00fcs olarak kullan\u0131lan bu liman kenti g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k end\u00fcstrisi i\u00e7in oldu\u011fu kadar i\u015f d\u00fcnyas\u0131 ve akademik ortam i\u00e7in de \u00f6nemli bir merkez \u0130zlanda\u2019da.<\/span><\/p>\n

D\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f i\u00e7in Akureyri<\/em>\u2019den Reykjavik<\/em>\u2019e hem uzun bir karayolu seyahati hem de \u00a0gezinin en \u00f6nemli u\u011frak yeri var yol \u00fczerinde.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yazd\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 Charles Edmond<\/em> ad\u0131yla yay\u0131nlayan Edmund Chojecki<\/em> isimli Polonyal\u0131 bir yazar\u0131n \u0130zlanda\u2019ya yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 seyahatin notlar\u0131ndan \u201cfazlas\u0131yla\u201d esinlendi\u011fi bilinen Jules Verne\u2019<\/em> nin roman\u0131 “Arz\u0131n Merkezinde Seyahat”<\/em>te ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 noktas\u0131 olarak ge\u00e7en Snaefels<\/em> yanarda\u011f\u0131 ve buzulu en az yar\u0131m g\u00fcn ayr\u0131lmas\u0131 gereken bir g\u00fczergah.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Reyjkavik<\/em>\u2019e 120 kilometre uzakl\u0131ktaki yanarda\u011f b\u00fcy\u00fck bir yar\u0131mada \u00fczerinde yer al\u0131yor. Deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki d\u00fczl\u00fcklerde lav kayal\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerini \u00f6rten karayosunlar\u0131 yemye\u015fil bir do\u011fa manzaras\u0131na neden oluyor burada da. Roman karakterleri, profes\u00f6r ve ye\u011feni ile rehberlerinin k\u0131y\u0131y\u0131 takip ederek ve o k\u00f6y senim bu k\u00f6y benim \u015feklinde at s\u0131rt\u0131nda yapt\u0131klar\u0131 yolculuktan farkl\u0131 olarak kestirmeden gitsek de anayoldan sapan yollar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131ndaki tabelalarda k\u00f6y isimlerini kontrol etmeyi ihmal etmedik. Arz\u0131n merkezine y\u00f6nelen macerac\u0131lar\u0131n volkan\u0131n a\u011fz\u0131na dalmadan \u00f6nce konaklad\u0131klar\u0131 son k\u00f6y olarak bahsi ge\u00e7en Arnastapi<\/em> eski zamanlarda yar\u0131madadaki \u00f6nemli bir limanm\u0131\u015f. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde ise sportif bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k ve sayfiye olanaklar\u0131yla yaz aylar\u0131nda pop\u00fcler bir turistik merkez. Arnastapi<\/em>\u2019den sonra yar\u0131madan\u0131n bat\u0131 ucunda bir ba\u015fka lav tarlas\u0131, Hellnahraun<\/em> uzan\u0131yor. Bu lav tarlas\u0131n\u0131n ortas\u0131nda ise lavlar\u0131n yer alt\u0131nda kendilerine yol a\u00e7arak olu\u015fturdu\u011fu bir ma\u011fara var: Vatnshellir<\/em> ma\u011faras\u0131 200 metre uzunlu\u011funda, 35 metre derinli\u011finde bir lav kanal\u0131. \u0130zlanda\u2019da giri\u015f \u00fccreti \u00f6denerek gezilen nadir yerlerden biri. Buray\u0131 gezebilmek i\u00e7in periyodik turlardan birine kat\u0131lmak, kask ve fener gibi ekipmanla rehber e\u015fli\u011finde ma\u011faraya inmek gerekiyor. Romandaki gibi bir yanarda\u011f\u0131n \u00a0krater a\u011fz\u0131ndan olmasa da arz\u0131n derinliklerine bir nebze olsun girmek i\u00e7in en uygun yer.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yar\u0131maday\u0131 dola\u015farak yola devam etmek hem de\u011fi\u015fik a\u00e7\u0131lardan Snaeffelsjok\u00fc<\/em>l buzululunu hem de yol \u00fczerindeki bir ba\u015fka do\u011fa harikas\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rme imkan\u0131 veriyor. \u0130zlanda tan\u0131t\u0131m foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131n vazge\u00e7ilmezlerinden biri Kirkjuffall. Kilise Da\u011f\u0131 <\/em>ve \u00e7evresindeki \u015felaleler \u0130zlanda foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131n olmazsa olmazlar\u0131ndan. Fakat saat itibariyle g\u00fcn \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n uygunsuz a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 burada istedi\u011fimiz gibi foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmemize izin vermiyor. Bekleyecek zaman da yok. Reyjkavik<\/em>\u2019de k\u0131sa bir molan\u0131n ard\u0131ndan Keflavik<\/em> havaliman\u0131na gitmek gerekiyor. Art\u0131k d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f vakti. Saat gece yar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterse de alacakaranl\u0131k bir ayd\u0131nl\u0131kta havalanan u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n penceresinden son bir g\u00f6z at\u0131yoruz adaya.<\/span><\/p>\n

Alt\u0131m\u0131zda uzanan <\/span>benzersiz co\u011frafya, <\/span>ba\u015fka bir <\/span>d\u00fcnya,<\/span> ba\u015fka bir <\/span>yery\u00fcz\u00fc par\u00e7as\u0131 sanki…<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

M\u00fczik: Adrian Von Ziegler<\/strong>-Slava, Moy Brat<\/span><\/em><\/p>\nhttp:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Adrian-von-Ziegler-Slava-Moy-Brat.mp3<\/a><\/audio>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u0131<\/em><\/p>\n

(Prose Edda-Slav Mitolojisi)*<\/span><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0 Kuzeye do\u011fru Niflheim uzan\u0131rd\u0131, buz ve karla kapl\u0131 Muspell vard\u0131 g\u00fcneyde, ate\u015f ve alevler i\u00e7inde kaynayan \u0130kisinin aras\u0131ndaysa bir muazzam bo\u015fluk, Ginnungagap \u00a0 Kuzeyden buraya zehirli bir nehir akard\u0131 Akar akar donard\u0131 K\u0131ra\u011f\u0131 ve buz olurdu tabaka tabaka G\u00fcneyden esen s\u0131cak yel eritti buzu damla damla \u00a0 O damlayla ba\u015flad\u0131 hayat U\u011fursuz orman devlerinin […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8415","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-izlanda","czr-hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8415","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8415"}],"version-history":[{"count":564,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8415\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10202,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8415\/revisions\/10202"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8415"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8415"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8415"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}