{"id":6570,"date":"2014-10-12T10:00:05","date_gmt":"2014-10-12T09:00:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=6570"},"modified":"2015-09-24T20:58:54","modified_gmt":"2015-09-24T19:58:54","slug":"bavyerada-besinci-mevsim","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=6570","title":{"rendered":"Bavyera’da Be\u015finci Mevsim"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

M\u00fczik: Will Glahe- <\/strong>Rosamunde (Beer Barrel Polka)<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/a> <\/em><\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

Almanlar\u0131n Hauptbanhof<\/em> dedikleri merkez istasyonuna girdi\u011fimizde kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z manzara hepimizi \u015fa\u015f\u0131rtm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u015ea\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 olan hem\u00a0hafta ortas\u0131nda, daha \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma saatleri sona ermeden\u00a0toplanm\u0131\u015f kalabal\u0131k \u00a0hem de kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 olu\u015fturanlar\u0131n neredeyse tek tip giyim tarzlar\u0131yd\u0131. Kahverengi g\u00fcderiden ask\u0131l\u0131 k\u0131sa pantolonlar\u0131, p\u00f6tikareli g\u00f6mlekleri ve s\u00fcsl\u00fc y\u00fcn \u00e7oraplar\u0131yla erkekler, karpuz kollu\u00a0beyaz g\u00f6mleklerinin \u00fczerinde \u00a0canl\u0131 renklerden se\u00e7ilmi\u015f elbiseleri, beyaz \u00f6nl\u00fckleriyle kad\u0131nlar \u00a0bir fig\u00fcran kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131yd\u0131 da sanki biz de bir film setindeydik. Oysa k\u0131yafetlerimiz uymasa da amac\u0131m\u0131z bu kalabal\u0131kla ayn\u0131yd\u0131: bir sonraki metro dura\u011f\u0131,\u00a0Theresienwiese.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>Kral I.Ludwig<\/em>\u2019in 12 Ekim 1810\u2019daki ta\u00e7 giyme t\u00f6reni ile ayn\u0131 anda yap\u0131lan evlilik t\u00f6renini kutlama amac\u0131yla d\u00fczenlenen at yar\u0131\u015flar\u0131 ve \u015fenlikten \u00a0k\u00f6ken alm\u0131\u015f iki y\u00fcz y\u0131ll\u0131k bir festival Oktoberfest.<\/em> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>T\u00f6renden be\u015f g\u00fcn sonra, 17 ekimde yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f kutlamalar izleyen y\u0131llarda zenginle\u015ferek gelenekselle\u015fmi\u015f. At yar\u0131\u015flar\u0131 1938\u2019de ortadan kalkm\u0131\u015f ama \u015fenlik kesilmeden devam etmi\u015f bug\u00fcne kadar. \u015eenlik alan\u0131na da m\u00fcstakbel krali\u00e7e Therese\u2019nin onuruna Theresienwiese <\/em>yani \u201cTherese<\/em> \u00e7ay\u0131r\u0131\u201d<\/em> ad\u0131 verilmi\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Bir zamanlar \u00e7ay\u0131r olan \u015fenlik alan\u0131 daha \u00e7ok bir lunapark g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde. Etraf\u0131 dolduran lunapark oyuncaklar\u0131 y\u00fckseklik ve h\u0131zlar\u0131yla adrenalin tutkunlar\u0131na meydan okuyor. \"\"<\/a><\/em>Bizim gibi adrenalinle i\u015fi olmayanlar i\u00e7inse her \u00e7e\u015fit etin \u0131zgara duman\u0131n\u0131n y\u00fckseldi\u011fi bira bah\u00e7eleri ve devasa bira \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131 var. Her birisi kendi ba\u015f\u0131na birer alameti farika olan bira \u00fcreticilerine ait \u00a0bu yap\u0131lar \u00f6n cephelerindeki renkli s\u00fcslemeleriyle \u00e7ad\u0131rdan fazlar\u0131 bir usta i\u015fi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm sergiliyorlar. <\/span><\/p>\n

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<\/a>\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a>\u00d6nceden rezervasyon yapt\u0131rmam\u0131\u015flar i\u00e7in \u00e7ad\u0131rlarda oturacak yer bulmak olanaks\u0131z. Rezervasyon ise baz\u0131 \u00e7ad\u0131rlarda en az alt\u0131 baz\u0131 \u00e7ad\u0131rlarda en az on ki\u015filik gruplar i\u00e7in yapt\u0131r\u0131labiliyor. \"\"<\/a><\/em>Bu say\u0131lara ula\u015famayan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck grubumuzun \u015fans\u0131na L\u00f6wenbrau<\/em>\u2019nun bah\u00e7esinde yer bulmay\u0131 ba\u015fard\u0131k. \u0130\u00e7erideki canl\u0131 m\u00fczi\u011fin d\u0131\u015far\u0131ya aktar\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 bah\u00e7ede birer litrelik koca cam bardaklarda sunulan biram\u0131z\u0131 yudumlarken her birimiz merakl\u0131 g\u00f6zlerle etraf\u0131 izliyorduk.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Bira \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131n aras\u0131nda uzanan yol tam bir piyasa yeri. \u00dczerlerinde -ba\u015fta\u00a0ich liebe dich<\/em> <\/em>olmak \u00fczere-\u00a0\u00e7e\u015fitli mesajlar\u0131n\u00a0–<\/em>yaz\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu kalp \u015feklindeki\u00a0Oktoberfest<\/em> \u00e7\u00f6rekleri, \u015fenli\u011fin ruhuna uygun \u015fapka ve k\u0131yafetler, aksesuarlar, hediyelikler yol k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131na dizilmi\u015f tezgahlarda al\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 bekliyor. S\u0131ra s\u0131ra dizilmi\u015f atlar\u0131n \u00e7ekti\u011fi bira f\u0131\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131yla y\u00fckl\u00fc araba yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131ndaki \u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131rtkanlar\u0131n gayretleriyle zorlukla ilerliyor kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131n aras\u0131nda.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>\u0130smi bir ekim ay\u0131 \u015fenli\u011fini \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015ft\u0131rsa da asl\u0131nda eyl\u00fclde ba\u015fl\u0131yor festival. Bunun sorumlusu Bavyera\u2019n\u0131n dillere destan so\u011fu\u011fu. K\u0131\u015f erken gelip de e\u011flencenin keyfini ka\u00e7\u0131rmas\u0131n diye y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde festival \u00f6ne \u00e7ekilmi\u015f. \u00a0Ekim ay\u0131n\u0131n ilk pazar\u0131nda sona erecek bi\u00e7imde eyl\u00fclde bir cumartesi g\u00fcn\u00fc ba\u015flayan festival onalt\u0131 g\u00fcn s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Bu on alt\u0131 g\u00fcn t\u00fcm \u015fehir bir \u015fenlik alan\u0131 gibi. Festival alan\u0131nda oldu\u011fu kadar \u00e7ok olmasa da geleneksel Bavyera giysileriyle dola\u015fan insanlar M\u00fcnih\u2019in kalabal\u0131k cadde ve meydanlar\u0131nda da g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Marienplatz<\/em> ve etraf\u0131ndaki sokaklarda festival karma\u015fas\u0131ndan uzak bi\u00e7imde ama Oktoberfest<\/em> ruhuyla biralar\u0131 yudumlamak ve Bavyera \u00e7e\u015fnilerinden tatmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Oktoberfest<\/em>\u2019in k\u00f6keni kraliyet t\u00f6reni kutlamalar\u0131na ba\u011flansa da daha eski bir gelene\u011fe uzanmas\u0131 kuvvetle muhtemel.
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Hristiyan gelene\u011finde karnavallar Hz.\u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7\u00f6lde a\u00e7 ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi k\u0131rk g\u00fcn\u00fc kutsamak \u00fczere oru\u00e7 tutulan b\u00fcy\u00fck perhiz d\u00f6neminden hemen \u00f6nceye denk d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor ve Oktoberfest<\/em> i\u00e7in de kullan\u0131lan\u00a0“Be\u015finci Mevsim”<\/em> tan\u0131m\u0131yla adland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yor. Perhiz d\u00f6neminde kat\u0131 g\u0131da t\u00fcketmeleri yasak olan Paulaner<\/em> rahiplerinin \u00fcrettikleri Doppelbock<\/em> yani \u00e7ift tay\u0131nl\u0131 bira rahiplerce \u201cs\u0131v\u0131 ekmek\u201d olarak t\u00fcketilmekle kalmam\u0131\u015f be\u015finci mevsimin en me\u015fhur bira markalar\u0131ndan biri olmu\u015f g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Bavyera’da bira i\u015finde rahipler \u00f6nemli rol oynam\u0131\u015f hep.\u00a0Onalt\u0131nc\u0131 y\u00fczy\u0131lda M\u00fcnih’te \u00fcretilen biralar Bavyera d\u00fck\u00fc V.Wilhelm<\/em>\u2019in a\u011f\u0131z tad\u0131na uymad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 Saksonya\u2019dan ithal biralarla susuzlu\u011funu gideren d\u00fck, kent konseyinin kendi biralar\u0131n\u0131 yapma fikrine kucak a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f ve Geisenfeld<\/em> manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n bira ustas\u0131\u00a0Heimeran Pongraz<\/em>\u2019a,\u00a0Alter Hof\u2019<\/em>da bir bira imalathanesi kurdurmu\u015f.\u00a0Hofbrahaus<\/em>\u2019un ilk\u00a0ale<\/em> <\/em>tipi esmer biras\u0131 burada \u00fcretilmi\u015f. D\u00fck\u2019\u00fcn o\u011flu I.Maximillian<\/em>\u2019\u0131n a\u011f\u0131z tad\u0131 ise beyaz bu\u011fday biras\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcretilmesini sa\u011flam\u0131\u015f. B\u00f6ylece Bavyera kraliyet biras\u0131 olarak \u00fcnlenen\u00a0Hofbrauhaus<\/em> (HB) I.Ludwig<\/em> zaman\u0131nda halka a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve o g\u00fcnden bu yana da m\u00fc\u015fterilerini \u015fimdiki yerinde a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131yor. Hofbrauhaus<\/em>‘un tarihsel \u00f6nemi bununla s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 de\u011fil. \u0130lk d\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan Almanlar’\u0131n ma\u011flubiyet hissinden kurtulmak i\u00e7in topland\u0131\u011f\u0131 mekanlar olmu\u015f birahaneler. \u0130lk s\u00f6ylevini\u00a0\u015eubat 1920 de\u00a0Hofbrahaus<\/em>‘un \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc kat\u0131nda toplanan yetmi\u015f ki\u015filik bir toplulu\u011fa veren Adolf Hitler \u00fc\u00e7 y\u0131l sonra bu biraevinin \u00f6n\u00fcnde toplad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ikibini a\u015fk\u0131n kalabal\u0131\u011fa \u00a0Alman \u0130\u015f\u00e7i Partisi’nin bundan\u00a0b\u00f6yle Nasyonal Sosyalist \u0130\u015f\u00e7i Partisi olarak faaliyet g\u00f6sterece\u011fini duyurmu\u015f ve yeni partinin 25 maddelik program\u0131n\u0131 ilan ederek Nazi partisini resmen kurmu\u015f. Nazilerin, tarihe “birahane ayaklanmas\u0131”\u00a0olarak ge\u00e7en darbe giri\u015fimi de \u00fc\u00e7 y\u0131l sonra 8 Kas\u0131m 1923’de yine M\u00fcnih’te bir ba\u015fka birahanede (B\u00fcrgerbraukeller)<\/em> ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmi\u015f. Hitler ba\u015far\u0131s\u0131z darbe giri\u015fimi nedeniyle be\u015f y\u0131la mahkum edilse de \u00fclkedeki milliyet\u00e7i iklimin etkisiyle birka\u00e7 ay g\u00f6stermelik cezaevi g\u00f6zetiminden sonra serbest b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.\u00a0M\u00fcnih’e\u00a0dair\u00a0iki\u00a0“eser”<\/em> <\/em>b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015f Adolf Hitler. Biri\u00a0Hofbrahaus<\/em>‘un suluboya bir resmi \u00f6teki de nazilerin ilk toplama kamp\u0131 Dachau<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n


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\u0130kinci d\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131nda neredeyse t\u00fcm\u00fc y\u0131k\u0131lan bu kentin ac\u0131l\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015fi\u00a0Oktoberfest<\/em> g\u00fcnlerinde pek hat\u0131rlanm\u0131yor. Zaten festivalin ruhuna ayk\u0131r\u0131. Bu g\u00fcnlerde M\u00fcnih\u2019te bir seyyah i\u00e7in biralardan uzak kalmak imkans\u0131z. \u015eehrin her yerinde festival ruhu insan\u0131 sar\u0131yor ve asl\u0131nda kentin hakk\u0131n\u0131 vermeyi \u00f6nl\u00fcyor. Yine de bir kent turu yapmay\u0131 ba\u015fard\u0131k k\u0131sa bir zaman aral\u0131\u011f\u0131nda.\u00a0Marienplatz\u2019<\/em>daki eski ve yeni belediye saraylar\u0131\u00a0(Rathause),<\/em> <\/em>ikiz kuleli kilisesi\u00a0(Frauenkirche),<\/em> Odeonplatz<\/em>\u2019da bu g\u00fcn Rezidanz M\u00fczesi olarak korunan kraliyet saray\u0131, kent merkezinde d\u00f6rt kilometrekarelik bir yemye\u015fil bir alana yay\u0131lan \u0130ngiliz bah\u00e7esi\u00a0(Englischer Garten)<\/em> M\u00fcnih\u2019te\u00a0Oktoberfest<\/em> d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda da g\u00f6r\u00fclecek \u00e7ok \u015fey oldu\u011funun somut kan\u0131tlar\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Theresienwiese<\/em>\u2019de\u00a0L\u00f6wenbrau<\/em> ile yetinmeyip\u00a0Nymhenburg Sekt<\/em> <\/em>\u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131nda bir bar taburesine ili\u015fmeyi ba\u015far\u0131nca uzayan gece ve mebzul biran\u0131n ertesinde t\u00fcm yorgunlu\u011fumuza ra\u011fmen, eski bir dost tavsiyesine uyup\u00a0yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z gibi bir bu\u00e7uk saatlik bir yolculukla\u00a0Garmisch-Partenkirchen\u2019e <\/em>gitmek de m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Funik\u00fcler (Cogwheel) <\/em>tren ile iki bin metrelik bir t\u0131rman\u0131\u015ftan sonra Almanya\u2019n\u0131n zirvesindeyiz. Avusturya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131 yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda, 2961 metre ile \u00fclkenin en y\u00fcksek noktas\u0131\u00a0olan Zugspitze<\/em>\u2019 de manzara g\u00f6rme umudumuz sis ve ya\u011fmur nedeniyle bo\u015fa \u00e7\u0131ksa da teleferikle h\u0131zl\u0131 bir ini\u015f yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u00a0Eibsee<\/em>\u2019deki da\u011f ve g\u00f6l manzaras\u0131 hem \u015fans\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 hem de yorgunlu\u011fumuzu yeterince telafi etti.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Marienplatz<\/em>‘da bir veda biras\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan ba\u015flayan d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f yolculu\u011funda, birbirimize s\u00f6ylemesek de hepimizin akl\u0131ndaki soru ayn\u0131 muhakkak: Seneye de a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015fa, ilk f\u0131\u00e7\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131rken gelsek…<\/em><\/span> Fena m\u0131 olur?<\/em><\/p>\n

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[ti_audio media=”6775″ autoplay=”1″ repeat=”1″]<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan M\u00fczik: Will Glahe- Rosamunde (Beer Barrel Polka) Almanlar\u0131n Hauptbanhof dedikleri merkez istasyonuna girdi\u011fimizde kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z manzara hepimizi \u015fa\u015f\u0131rtm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u015ea\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 olan hem\u00a0hafta ortas\u0131nda, daha \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma saatleri sona ermeden\u00a0toplanm\u0131\u015f kalabal\u0131k \u00a0hem de kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 olu\u015fturanlar\u0131n neredeyse tek tip giyim tarzlar\u0131yd\u0131. Kahverengi g\u00fcderiden ask\u0131l\u0131 k\u0131sa pantolonlar\u0131, p\u00f6tikareli g\u00f6mlekleri ve s\u00fcsl\u00fc y\u00fcn \u00e7oraplar\u0131yla erkekler, karpuz […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6570","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-avrupa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6570","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6570"}],"version-history":[{"count":300,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6570\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8072,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6570\/revisions\/8072"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6570"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6570"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6570"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}