{"id":65,"date":"2011-03-08T22:40:36","date_gmt":"2011-03-08T21:40:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=65"},"modified":"2012-03-05T22:49:40","modified_gmt":"2012-03-05T21:49:40","slug":"gunesin-dogdugu-yer-mpumalanga-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=65","title":{"rendered":"G\u00fcne\u015fin Do\u011fdu\u011fu Yer -Mpumalanga"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/em>
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Y\u0131llard\u0131r duyar\u0131z ya istanbullulardan: Bu bayram g\u00fcneye gidiyoruz diye. Bilin\u00e7 alt\u0131m\u0131za i\u015flemi\u015f olmal\u0131. \u00c7\u0131kt\u0131k biz de yola: g\u00fcneye, ama az biraz abartt\u0131k.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u0130lk durak Dubai \u00fczerinden Johannesburg. T\u00fcrkiye ile saat fark\u0131 yok, pazar g\u00fcn\u00fc \u00f6\u011fle \u00fczeri vard\u0131k. Havaalan\u0131nda bizi bekleyen 60-65 ya\u015flar\u0131nda, beyaz bir han\u0131m. Hem rehber hem s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fcm\u00fcz \u201cdriver and guide\u201d. Havalan\u0131ndan bindi\u011fimiz minib\u00fcs ile genel bir \u015fehir turu. G\u00fcney Afrika\u2019ya ili\u015fkin ilk izlenimler: Ortas\u0131nda kulelerden ve modern binalardan olu\u015fan \u015fehir merkezi, \u00e7evresi \u201ctenekeli mahalle\u201d. Bizim tenekeli mahalleler epeyce l\u00fcks kal\u0131r yanlar\u0131nda. Tedirgin edici bir hava. \u00dcstelik g\u00fcnd\u00fcz vakti \u201ckap\u0131lar\u0131 kilitliyorum, pencereleri a\u00e7may\u0131n\u201d uyar\u0131s\u0131 al\u0131nca daha bir huzursuz hissediyor insan kendini. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bariz bir fark\u0131m\u0131z var: Beyaz ten.<\/span><\/div>\n

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\"\"<\/span><\/a>\u015eehir merkezinde g\u00f6steri\u015fli yap\u0131lar: \u00dcnl\u00fc elmas \u015firketi De Beers\u2019in t\u00fcm y\u00fczeyi camla kapl\u0131, kesme ta\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcml\u00fc binas\u0131, Nelson Mandela Meydan\u0131\u2019nda pahal\u0131 oteller, \u015fehir sakinlerinin \u201c\u00fc\u00e7 \u00e7irkin k\u0131z karde\u015f\u201d olarak adland\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7 ta\u015f bloktan olu\u015fan hastane,<\/span><\/div>\n
Fakat sokaklar \u0131ss\u0131z, yer yer siyahlar\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu nispeten kalabal\u0131k mahalleler, etrafta y\u00fcr\u00fcyen beyaz tenli g\u00f6rmek neredeyse olanaks\u0131z. Bir meydanda ellerindeki silahlar\u0131 havaya kald\u0131rm\u0131\u015f gibi\u00a0 g\u00f6z\u00fcken 3 siyah bedenden olu\u015fan madenciler an\u0131t\u0131 bu b\u00f6lgedeki maden zenginli\u011fi konusunda uyar\u0131c\u0131. Johannesburg d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en zengin maden b\u00f6lgelerinden. Elmas, alt\u0131n, g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f, demir, k\u00f6m\u00fcr, bak\u0131r, platin madenleri b\u00f6lgenin zenginlik kaynaklar\u0131. Ama zenginlik kent sakinlerinin de\u011fil \u00e7okuluslu \u015firketlerin beyaz temsilcilerinin elinde daha \u00e7ok. \u015eehir turunun ard\u0131ndan vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z otelimiz \u00fclkenin ge\u00e7mi\u015fine de \u0131\u015f\u0131k tutuyor. Bir zamanlar k\u0131y\u0131c\u0131 bir ingiliz valinin malikanesi olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bu Viktorya tarz\u0131 eski yap\u0131, \u00a0\u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir bah\u00e7enin ortas\u0131nda yer almakta. Otele girdikten sonra tedirginlik kayboluyor ama, iki kadeh Amarula\u2019n\u0131n da etkisiyle kent merkezi gitmek isteyece\u011finiz bir yer de\u011fil art\u0131k.<\/span><\/div>\n
Sabah erken saatte s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc\/rehberimiz kap\u0131da. E\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 minib\u00fcse y\u00fckledik ve kuzeye do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Yol boyunca tenekeli mahalleler. Yer yer, eski derme \u00e7atma mahallelerin yerine bizim \u201cafet konutlar\u0131\u201d diyebilece\u011fimiz tarzda tek katl\u0131, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck betonarme konutlardan olu\u015fan mahalleler, devlet taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u201cHer G\u00fcney Afrika Cumhuriyeti vatanda\u015f\u0131n\u0131n bar\u0131nacak yer, temiz su ve elektri\u011fe hakk\u0131 vard\u0131r\u201d d\u00fcst\u00fcruyla. Bu kadarc\u0131k bile olsa bir sosyal devletin izlerini g\u00f6rmek ilgin\u00e7, madenlerden kald\u0131r\u0131lan zenginlik ba\u015fka yerlere akarken. Johannesburg\u2019tan kuzeye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k\u00e7a Mpumalanga eyaletine do\u011fru ilerliyoruz. Buras\u0131 zengin k\u00f6m\u00fcr yataklar\u0131ndan dolay\u0131, bir k\u0131sm\u0131 at\u0131l da olsa \u00e7ok say\u0131da enerji santralinin bulundu\u011fu bir b\u00f6lge. \u00dclkenin enerji gereksinimini neredeyse tamam\u0131 buralardan sa\u011flan\u0131yor. Kuzeye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k\u00e7a b\u00fcy\u00fck kent havas\u0131ndan uzakla\u015f\u0131yoruz, do\u011fa etkileyicili\u011fini artt\u0131r\u0131yor. Mpumalanga \u201cg\u00fcne\u015fin do\u011fdu\u011fu yer\u201d demek Zulu dilinde. Hedefimiz \u00fclkenin kuzey do\u011fusunda iki milyon hektara yay\u0131l\u0131 Kruger Milli Park\u0131\u2019n\u0131n da bulundu\u011fu co\u011frafya. Asl\u0131nda \u201cpanaromik hat\u201d olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan bir g\u00fczergahtan ge\u00e7erek d\u00fcnyan\u0131n \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc b\u00fcy\u00fck kanyonu olan Blyde River Kanyonu ke\u015ffetmek te m\u00fcmk\u00fcn ama bu hi\u00e7 durmadan ge\u00e7sek bile zaten 6 saat s\u00fcrecek karayolculu\u011funu 3 saat daha uzatmak demek. S\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc\/ rehberimiz bizi b\u0131rak\u0131p Kruger Milli Park yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda konaklayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z koruma b\u00f6lgesine bizi b\u0131rak\u0131p Johannesburg\u2019a geri d\u00f6necek. Bu nedenle Blyde River Canyonu bir ba\u015fka geziye b\u0131rak\u0131p ilerliyoruz Olifantes (Fil) nehri k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndan. Kruger Park\u2019\u0131n bat\u0131s\u0131nda \u00f6zel koruma b\u00f6lgeleri var. Bunlar etraf\u0131 elektrikli tellerle \u00e7evrili, i\u00e7inde \u00e7e\u015fitli bi\u00e7imlerde konaklama olana\u011f\u0131 sunan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00f6zel parklar. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck dedi\u011fime bakmay\u0131n, uzun s\u00fcren yolculu\u011funuzun sonunda vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Edeni Park 10 bin hektar, etraf\u0131 elektrikli tellerle \u00e7evrili bu park\u0131n ortas\u0131nda yine elektrikli tellerle \u00e7evrili bir kamp b\u00f6lgesi konaklama alan\u0131m\u0131z. Ah\u015fap k\u00fct\u00fcklerden olu\u015fturulmu\u015f platformlar\u0131n \u00fczerinde kurulu ye\u015fil renkte \u00e7ad\u0131rlar, i\u00e7inde bulundu\u011fumuz ormanl\u0131k alan\u0131n do\u011fal bir par\u00e7as\u0131 gibi. \u00c7ad\u0131r\u0131n i\u00e7i \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131. Kocaman bir yatak, arkada bir perdenin ay\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 b\u00f6lmede \u00e7ad\u0131ra \u00f6zel du\u015f ve tuvalet. \u00c7ad\u0131r kamp\u0131nda de\u011fil\u00a0 4 y\u0131ld\u0131zl\u0131 bir otel odas\u0131nday\u0131z sanki. Odalara yerle\u015fip dinlenmeye kalmadan saat 4\u2019te ak\u015fam safarisi i\u00e7in \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131ld\u0131k. \u00dcst\u00fc a\u00e7\u0131k bir arazi arac\u0131- o da ye\u015fil renkli. Safari rengi \u00fcniformalar\u0131yla iki g\u00f6revli: birisi \u201cranger\u201d, arac\u0131 o kullan\u0131yor, di\u011feri arac\u0131n burnuna yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f bir koltukta seyahat eden iz s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc. <\/span> <\/p>\n
Kamp alan\u0131ndan uzakla\u015ft\u0131ktan sonra orman\u0131n i\u00e7ine dal\u0131yoruz, ara\u00e7 toprak patikada ilerlerken \u00f6ndeki iz s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc yoldan ge\u00e7mi\u015f hayvanlara ait taze izleri ve i\u015faretleri kolluyor.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Bir iz yakalad\u0131\u011f\u0131nda ranger\u2019i y\u00f6nlendirerek o izin y\u00f6neldi\u011fi ba\u015fka bir patikaya direksiyon \u00e7evriliyor. \u0130mpalalar, kudular, gnular geyikgillerden muhtelif boynuzlu ve toynakl\u0131 otoburlar. Bunlardan bolca var, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc onlar ayn\u0131 zamanda besin. Safarinin hedefi \u201cb\u00fcy\u00fck be\u015fi\u201d (arslan, leopar, gergedan, fil ve buffalo) g\u00f6rebilmek. Yar\u0131s\u0131 yenmi\u015f \u00f6l\u00fc bir kudunun yan\u0131ndan ilerleyerek ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z nehir yata\u011f\u0131nda boylu boyunca uzanm\u0131\u015f erkek arslan\u0131 uyurken buluyoruz. Ara\u00e7tan inmek, a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 hareketlerde bulunmak ve g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fc yapmak yasak. \u015e\u00f6yle bir bak\u0131yor bize, bir an g\u00f6zg\u00f6ze\u00a0 geliyoruz. Sonras\u0131nda arslan\u0131 uykuya b\u0131rak\u0131p yola devam. Orman alacakaranl\u0131\u011fa g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fcnce farkediyoruz 4 saati a\u015fk\u0131nd\u0131r hayvan pe\u015finde dola\u015f\u0131yoruz. \u0130lk safarinin heyecan\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan kampta ilk gece. Orman\u0131n sesi d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda ses yok. Ne televizyon var ne cep telefonlar\u0131 \u00e7ekiyor. Sabah safarisi i\u00e7in tan a\u011farmadan kalkmak gerek. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/span><\/a>G\u00fcn\u00fcn ilk \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131yla avc\u0131lar\u0131n pe\u015findeyiz. Ava \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir \u00e7ift erkek \u00e7itan\u0131n gergin g\u00f6vdeleriyle bizi umursamadan \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczden ge\u00e7i\u015fi tablo gibi. Y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n izinden gidince anneli yavrulu bir fil s\u00fcr\u00fcs\u00fc. \u0130ri bir fil kulaklar\u0131n\u0131 iki yana a\u00e7arak bir s\u00fcre s\u00fcz\u00fcyor bizi. \"\"<\/a>Kulaklar\u0131n a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131 pek hayra alamet de\u011fil ama sessiz ve k\u0131p\u0131rt\u0131s\u0131z durunca sakinle\u015fiyor, hi\u00e7 bir\u015fey olmam\u0131\u015f gibi otlamaya devam. Asl\u0131nda otlamak laf\u0131 biraz hafif, epeyce a\u011fa\u00e7 deviriyorlar. Parkta zorunlu olmad\u0131k\u00e7a hi\u00e7 bir \u015feye m\u00fcdahale edilmiyor. Devrilen a\u011fa\u00e7lar, \u00f6len hayvanlar olduklar\u0131 yerde kal\u0131yor. Do\u011fan\u0131n kendi kurallar\u0131 i\u00e7inde d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyorlar. <\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/a><\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

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Kruger Park\u0131n da yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 Mpumalanga b\u00f6lgesi k\u0131\u015flar\u0131 kurak yazlar\u0131 bol ya\u011f\u0131\u015fl\u0131\u00a0bir ormanl\u0131k alan. A\u011fa\u00e7lar \u00e7ok y\u00fcksek olmasa da olduk\u00e7a ye\u015fil bir dokuya sahip. O ye\u015fil doku i\u00e7inde gergedanlar\u0131n, z\u00fcrafalar\u0131n, zebralar\u0131n, bufalolar\u0131n, su ayg\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131n, \u00e7akallar\u0131n seyri heyecan verici bir deneyimdi. \"\"<\/a>Envayi \u00e7e\u015fit ku\u015f aras\u0131nda \u0130zmir\u2019in simgesi kabul edilen yal\u0131\u00e7apk\u0131n\u0131n\u0131 ilk defa g\u00f6renlerimiz oldu. \u00d6\u011frendik ki oran\u0131n k\u0131\u015f\u0131nda Kuzey yar\u0131m k\u00fcreye g\u00f6\u00e7 edermi\u015f. <\/span>
\n \u00dc\u00e7 g\u00fcnl\u00fck kamp deneyimimizde en keyiflisi ise yar\u0131m metre \u00f6temizde rastlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z arslan yavrular\u0131 idi. Epeyce bir s\u00fcre merakl\u0131 bak\u0131\u015flarla birbirimizi izledikten sonra kurumu\u015f nehir yata\u011f\u0131n\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndan k\u00fckreyerek ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan anne arslanlarla bulu\u015fmalar\u0131 ve sonras\u0131ndaki oyunlar\u0131\u00a0 seyre de\u011ferdi. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en h\u0131zl\u0131 cinsel ili\u015fki rekoruna da tan\u0131k olduk bu arada. Babunlar bu konuda \u00e7ok h\u0131zl\u0131 ger\u00e7ekten, 30-40 saniyede i\u015fini bitiriverdi \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczde. Gecenin karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda fener yard\u0131m\u0131yla arad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z leopar\u0131 g\u00f6rmek k\u0131smet olmad\u0131. Zaten o parkta sadece 7 leopar varm\u0131\u015f. Bunu \u00f6\u011frenince anlad\u0131k neden g\u00f6revlilerin silah ta\u015f\u0131mad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, o kadar az say\u0131da kalm\u0131\u015f hayvan\u0131 turistlere bir \u015fey olmas\u0131n diye heba etmek hi\u00e7 de ak\u0131l kar\u0131 de\u011fil. Hayvan az, turist ise yeterince fazla. Birine bir \u015fey olsa yenisi\u00a0 gelir nas\u0131lsa diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyor olmal\u0131lar. Zaten hayvanlar\u0131n en vah\u015fisi bile yemek derdi yoksa veya bir tehlike alg\u0131lam\u0131yorsa zarar verme riski i\u00e7ermiyor. Tehlike daima insano\u011flundan, hem hayvanlara hem de hemcinslerine.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan     Y\u0131llard\u0131r duyar\u0131z ya istanbullulardan: Bu bayram g\u00fcneye gidiyoruz diye. Bilin\u00e7 alt\u0131m\u0131za i\u015flemi\u015f olmal\u0131. \u00c7\u0131kt\u0131k biz de yola: g\u00fcneye, ama az biraz abartt\u0131k.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-65","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-afrika","czr-hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=65"}],"version-history":[{"count":50,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":79,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65\/revisions\/79"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=65"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=65"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=65"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}