{"id":433,"date":"2011-06-06T09:04:47","date_gmt":"2011-06-06T08:04:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=433"},"modified":"2014-07-24T15:30:43","modified_gmt":"2014-07-24T14:30:43","slug":"potsdam-banliyo-baskent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=433","title":{"rendered":"Banliyoda Bir Ba\u015fkent"},"content":{"rendered":"

Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

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Berlin Kongre Merkezi\u2019nde sohbetimize bal\u0131klama dal\u0131p konu\u015ftu\u011fu Almanca\u2019ya Frans\u0131z kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce f\u0131r\u00e7alam\u0131\u015ft\u0131 g\u00fczelce hepimizi:<\/span><\/p>\n

-T\u00fcrk de\u011fil misiniz siz?<\/span><\/p>\n

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Demek ki Berlin\u2019deyseniz ve T\u00fcrkseniz en az\u0131ndan, \u00e7at pat bir Almanca konu\u015fabilmeniz \u00a0gerekiyor.<\/span><\/p>\n

Willy ile ertesi g\u00fcn ve daha ertesinde tekrarlayan kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmalar\u0131m\u0131z kahve sohbetlerine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnce kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 hal ve ahval muhasebesi yapmak ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131lmaz oldu. \u0130lk g\u00fcnk\u00fc kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fman\u0131n ve f\u0131r\u00e7an\u0131n sebebi ani geli\u015fen bir Almanca-T\u00fcrk\u00e7e terc\u00fcman ihtiyac\u0131 imi\u015f. Y\u0131llard\u0131r bir T\u00fcrk ile evli olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen T\u00fcrk\u00e7eyi \u00f6\u011frenmedi\u011fini itiraf etti az biraz mah\u00e7up. Berlin\u2019deki son g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn \u00f6\u011fleden sonras\u0131n\u0131 Potsdam gezisine ay\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenince de sordu:<\/span><\/p>\n

– Nas\u0131l gideceksiniz?<\/span><\/p>\n

Berlin’in m\u00fckemmel metro a\u011f\u0131ndan dem vurarak trenle yolculuk yapaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 s\u00f6yleyince itiraz etti.<\/span><\/p>\n

– Ama o zaman g\u00f6remezsiniz ki?<\/span><\/p>\n

“Neyi” demeye kalmadan iki dakikal\u0131\u011f\u0131na kayboldu. Gelir gelmez de \u201cHaydi gidiyoruz\u201d dedi arabas\u0131n\u0131n anahtarlar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6stererek. “Olurdu, olmazd\u0131” derken Willy\u2019nin arabas\u0131na yerle\u015fmi\u015f ve Postdam\u2019a do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131k.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130lk durak, 20 Ocak 1942\u2019de \u00fcst d\u00fczey Nazi y\u00f6neticilerinin Yahudi soyk\u0131r\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 planlad\u0131klar\u0131 \u00a0konferans\u0131n\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 Wannsee kasabas\u0131. Ayn\u0131 adl\u0131 g\u00f6l\u00fcn k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan bu Berlin banliyosunun en g\u00fczel yap\u0131lar\u0131ndan biri ise, bir fabrikat\u00f6r\u00fcn konutu olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015f olan g\u00f6l manzaral\u0131, geni\u015f bah\u00e7eli koca bir konak: \u201cVilla Garden Mallier\u201d.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

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Bug\u00fcn \u201cWannsee Konferans\u0131 Konutu\u201d<\/em> ad\u0131yla m\u00fcze olarak hizmet veren bu yap\u0131n\u0131n giri\u015f kat\u0131nda Yahudi soyk\u0131r\u0131m\u0131na ili\u015fkin s\u00fcre\u00e7 panolarda sergilenen yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflarla anlat\u0131lmakta. M\u00fczenin en \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 y\u00f6n\u00fc ise nazilerin torunlar\u0131n\u0131n duygular\u0131na yer verilen k\u0131s\u0131m. En b\u00fcy\u00fck insanl\u0131k su\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 i\u015flemi\u015f isimlerle ayn\u0131 soyad\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131mak bahts\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndaki ku\u015faklar\u0131n dedelerinin su\u00e7lar\u0131yla y\u00fczle\u015fme s\u00fcre\u00e7leri, bir\u00e7o\u011funun \u00e7ocukluk \u00e7a\u011f\u0131nda kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya kald\u0131klar\u0131 ger\u00e7e\u011fin etkileri \u00fcrperticiydi. B\u00f6yle g\u00fczel bir g\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, b\u00f6yle ye\u015fil bir bah\u00e7ede, b\u00f6yle g\u00f6rkemli bir konutta mutlu olmak varken insan ba\u015fkalar\u0131n\u0131 mutsuzlu\u011fa s\u00fcr\u00fckleyecek vah\u015fet planlar\u0131n\u0131 nas\u0131l yapar, anlamak zor.<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

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Yemye\u015fil bir \u00f6rt\u00fcn\u00fcn aras\u0131nda uzayan karayolu k\u0131sa bir yolculukla bizi bir k\u00f6pr\u00fcye getirdi: Glienicke K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Havel nehrinin geni\u015f bir dirsek yapmas\u0131yla olu\u015fmu\u015f Wansee g\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcn iki yakas\u0131n\u0131 birbirine ba\u011flayan, pek de \u00f6zellikli g\u00f6z\u00fckmeyen bu demir k\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn Do\u011fu Almanya ile Bat\u0131 Almanya aras\u0131nda casus ve esir de\u011fi\u015fimlerinde kullan\u0131lan mekan oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011frenince\u00a0 Holywood filmlerindeki sahneler belle\u011fimizde \u015f\u00f6yle bir k\u0131p\u0131rdand\u0131. Bu nefis k\u0131y\u0131 manzaras\u0131na so\u011fuk sava\u015f\u0131n soluk g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131ramad\u0131k pek. Solumuzda nehir k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131 boyunca uzanan ye\u015filli\u011fin i\u00e7inde ihti\u015faml\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcyle Babelsberg Saray\u0131\u2019n\u0131 b\u0131rakarak ilerleyince k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre sonra Potsdam\u2019a vard\u0131k.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Willy, hemen b\u0131rakmad\u0131 bizi \u0131srarla “Bunu da g\u00f6rmeniz laz\u0131m\u201d diyerek. Bize g\u00f6sterdi\u011fi caminin asl\u0131nda cami de\u011fil de \u015febeke suyu pompa\u00a0 istasyonu oldu\u011funu anlatt\u0131 heyecanla.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u0130mparator Frederick, Sansouci saray\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7e\u015fmelerinde ve f\u0131skiyelerinde her daim su g\u00f6rmek istemi\u015f. Bunun i\u00e7in yel de\u011firmenlerinin kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 geleneksel pompa sistemleri yerine Havel nehrinden suyun saraya pompalanmas\u0131 i\u00e7in 17. y\u00fczy\u0131lda buharla \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan bu pompa istasyonunun in\u015fas\u0131na ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f. Fakat hazret pek be\u011fendi\u011fi T\u00fcrk mimarisinden de bir \u00f6rnek g\u00f6rmek isteyince Potsdam\u2019da, cami g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcml\u00fc bu yap\u0131y\u0131 dikmi\u015fler. Laf aram\u0131zda\u00a0 etraf\u0131m\u0131zda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz pek \u00e7o\u011fundan daha zarif ve g\u00f6steri\u015fli.<\/span><\/p>\n

Prusya hanedan\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli isimlerinden olan B\u00fcy\u00fck Frederick (II.Friedrich) siyasi ve askeri ba\u015far\u0131lar\u0131, toplumu \u00e7a\u011fda\u015fla\u015ft\u0131rma \u00e7abalar\u0131 yan\u0131nda\u00a0 g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz Berlin ve Potsdam\u2019\u0131ndaki ba\u015fl\u0131ca mimari yap\u0131tlar\u0131n ortaya \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131na olanak sa\u011flayan imparator olarak Almanya tarihinde ciddi bir yer kapl\u0131yor. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\u0130mparatorun Postdam\u2019da yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 saray hem \u00e7ok g\u00f6rkemli hem de ilgin\u00e7 \u00f6yk\u00fcleri var. \u0130mparatorun Frans\u0131z yazar ve sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131na, dolay\u0131s\u0131yla Frans\u0131zca\u2019ya duydu\u011fu hayranl\u0131\u011f\u0131n bir sonucu olarak bu d\u00f6neme ait yap\u0131larda belirgin \u015fekilde Frans\u0131zca adland\u0131rma egemen. Ad\u0131, Frans\u0131zca\u2019da \u201ckayg\u0131s\u0131z\u201d anlam\u0131na gelen Sans \u00a0ve Souci <\/em>s\u00f6zc\u00fcklerinden k\u00f6ken alan Sanssouci Saray\u0131 ismiyle m\u00fcsemma, imparatorun istirahati i\u00e7in ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir malikane. <\/span><\/p>\n

Her birinde yemye\u015fil \u00fcz\u00fcm ba\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131raland\u0131\u011f\u0131 alt\u0131 geni\u015f teras\u0131n tepesinde Frans\u0131z tarz\u0131 Rokoko mimarisinin t\u00fcm g\u00f6rkemiyle kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor ziyaret\u00e7ilerini.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Epeyce y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fckten sonra imparatorun kraliyet misafirleri i\u00e7in yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131, Prusya hanedan\u0131n\u0131n son barok\u00a0 mimari \u00f6rne\u011fi olarak kabul edilen yeni saray \u201cNeues Palais<\/em>\u201d\u00a0 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za. Sanssouci park\u0131n\u0131n sonunda yer alan yeni saray\u0131n hemen ard\u0131nda ise g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn Potsdam \u00dcniversitesi ba\u015fl\u0131yor.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Uzun ve yorucu y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn ard\u0131nd<\/span>an yeniden Potsdam meydan\u0131nday\u0131z. Brandenburg kap\u0131s\u0131ndan giriyoruz kente bu defa. Berlin\u2019deki g\u00f6steri\u015fli ada\u015f\u0131na g\u00f6re \u00e7ok m\u00fctevazi ve daha \u00e7ok da Paris\u2019in \u00fcnl\u00fc zafer tak\u0131na benziyor.<\/span><\/p>\n

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<\/em>Bach\u2019\u0131n kon\u00e7ertolar\u0131yla \u00fcnlenen Brandenburg, Federal Alman Cumhuriyetinin en b\u00fcy\u00fck eyaletlerinden biri. Berlin\u2019in banliyosu gibi g\u00f6z\u00fcken Postdam\u2019\u0131n ise bu eyaletin ba\u015fkenti oldu\u011funu farketmek \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131. \u00d6te yandan Berlin de Brandenburg eyaletinin tam ortas\u0131nda bir ba\u015fka eyalet. Bu garip g\u00f6z\u00fcken idari yap\u0131 asl\u0131nda Almanya tarihindeki siyasi \u00e7eli\u015fkilerinin sonucu. Do\u011fu ve Bat\u0131 Almanya\u2019n\u0131n birle\u015fmesinden sonra, 1996\u2019da Berlin ve Brandenburg eyaletlerinin Berlin-Brandenburg eyaleti olarak tek bir eyalet \u015feklinde birle\u015fmesi ve ba\u015fkentinin Berlin olmas\u0131 tasarlanm\u0131\u015f ancak \u00f6neri halk oylamas\u0131nda kabul g\u00f6rmeyince Brandenburg ayr\u0131 bir eyalet, Potsdam da bu eyaletin ba\u015fkenti olarak kalm\u0131\u015f. Yine de al\u0131\u015fk\u0131n oldu\u011fumuz ba\u015fkent karga\u015fas\u0131 ve hareketlili\u011finden uzak, sakin bir kasaba g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcnde Potsdam.<\/span><\/p>\n

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18.y\u00fczy\u0131lda Hollandal\u0131 g\u00f6\u00e7menler i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 tu\u011flal\u0131, iki katl\u0131 evleriyle Flemenk Mahallesi, Avrupa\u2019da neo-gotik mimarinin erken d\u00f6nem \u00f6rneklerinden olan \u00a0bir di\u011fer kent kap\u0131s\u0131 Nauener Tor bir sinema dekoru havas\u0131 veriyor kente.<\/span><\/p>\n


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\u0130\u015fin ger\u00e7e\u011fi, Potsdam Alman film end\u00fcstrisinin en \u00f6nemli st\u00fcdyolar\u0131ndan birini \u00a0bar\u0131nd\u0131yor s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131nda. Marlen Dietrich\u2019i d\u00fcnyaca \u00fcne kavu\u015fturan Mavi Melek\u00a0 ya da Fritz Lang\u2019\u0131n k\u00fclt filmi Metropolis gibi unutulmaz filmlere ev sahipli\u011fi yapan Filmpark Potsdam\u2019\u0131n az \u00f6tesinde, Babelsberg\u2019te kurulu ve g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde de \u00f6nemli filmlerin mekan\u0131 olmu\u015f bir yer. Roman Polanski\u2019nin Piyanist<\/em>‘i, V For Vendetta<\/em>, International<\/em> gibi tan\u0131d\u0131k filmler \u00e7ekilmi\u015f yak\u0131n ge\u00e7mi\u015fte.<\/span><\/p>\n

16 Temmuz 1945\u2019de galip devletlerin liderlerinin, Truman, Stalin ve Churchill\u2019in biraraya geldi\u011fi Potsdam Konferans\u0131\u2019na da ev sahipli\u011fi yapan kent yak\u0131n tarih a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan da \u00f6nemli.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Tarihsel \u00f6nemi bir yana, g\u00f6rkemli ge\u00e7mi\u015fiyle bar\u0131\u015f\u0131k mimarisi, d\u00fckkanlar\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne at\u0131lm\u0131\u015f masa ve sandalyelerde bir\u015feyler at\u0131\u015ft\u0131ran; kahve ya da biralar\u0131n\u0131 yudumlayan insanlar\u0131n dinginli\u011fi, be\u015f dakikada bir ge\u00e7en tramvaylar d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda motorlu ara\u00e7 sesinin duyulmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 kent merkeziyle Potsdam mutlu bir banliyo ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 duyumsat\u0131yor insana.\u00a0 Ba\u015fkent olamayacak denli sakin ve huzurlu, banliyo olamayacak denli vars\u0131l ve g\u00f6steri\u015fli. Ama bu durum ger\u00e7e\u011fi de\u011fi\u015ftirmiyor: bu kent, hem banliyo hem de ba\u015fkent.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan Berlin Kongre Merkezi\u2019nde sohbetimize bal\u0131klama dal\u0131p konu\u015ftu\u011fu Almanca\u2019ya Frans\u0131z kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce f\u0131r\u00e7alam\u0131\u015ft\u0131 g\u00fczelce hepimizi: -T\u00fcrk de\u011fil misiniz siz?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-433","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-avrupa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/433","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=433"}],"version-history":[{"count":270,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/433\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6143,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/433\/revisions\/6143"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=433"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=433"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=433"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}