{"id":3220,"date":"2012-08-16T21:24:07","date_gmt":"2012-08-16T20:24:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=3220"},"modified":"2017-07-15T20:11:49","modified_gmt":"2017-07-15T19:11:49","slug":"iki-sehrin-hikayesi-valladolidcancun","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=3220","title":{"rendered":"\u0130ki \u015eehrin Hikayesi: Valladolid\/Cancun"},"content":{"rendered":"

 <\/p>\n

Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

M\u00fczik:<\/em> <\/strong><\/span>Chavela Vargas \u00a0– <\/em><\/strong>Las\u00a0Ciudades*<\/em><\/p>\n

<\/em>* <\/em>\u015eehirler<\/em><\/p>\n


\n<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/a>Hani baz\u0131 ebeveynler vard\u0131r, <\/span>\u00e7ocuklar\u0131na \u00f6yle isimler koyarlar ki, y<\/span>a bir d\u00f6nemin keskin ideolojik y\u00f6nelimlerini yans\u0131t\u0131r veya a\u011f\u0131r bir sorumluluk y\u00fckler sahibinin omuzlar\u0131na. \u00a0Buras\u0131 da <\/span>\u00f6yle i\u015fte.
\n<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ferdinand ile \u0130sabel’in evlili\u011fine ev sahipli\u011fi yapan ve bu evlilikle <\/span>\u0130spanya’n\u0131n birli\u011fi \u00a0sa\u011fland\u0131ktan sonra ba\u015fkent olan, fakat y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131 tamamlayamadan bir yang\u0131nla k\u00fcl olunca, payitaht\u0131 Madrid’<\/em>e devreden ada\u015f\u0131n\u0131n parlak g\u00fcnlerinde; \u0130spanya’dan kalk\u0131p bu topraklara gelen s\u00f6m\u00fcrgecilerin Yucatan<\/em> yar\u0131madas\u0131n\u0131n ortas\u0131nda, “Yeni \u0130spanya”n\u0131n ba\u015fkenti olur niyetiyle kurduklar\u0131 Valladolid,<\/em> g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde s\u0131radan bir Meksika kasabas\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcnde. Oysa Yucatan<\/em> eyaletinin, <\/span>bir zamanlar “do\u011funun Sultan\u0131”<\/strong> \u00fcnvan\u0131na sahip <\/span>\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehri buras\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130lk kuruldu\u011fu yer \u015fimdiki konumundan epeyce kuzeyde bir g\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131 olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen sivrisinek ve nemle ba\u015fa \u00e7\u0131kamayan s\u00f6m\u00fcrgeciler bug\u00fcnk\u00fc yerle\u015fim yerinde karar k\u0131lm\u0131\u015flar. Kolay olmam\u0131\u015f ama, burada y\u0131llard\u0131r Za\u00e7i<\/em><\/strong> ad\u0131yla and\u0131klar\u0131 ve \u00a0ya\u015fad\u0131klar\u0131 kentlerinin yokedilmesine direnen Mayalar epey bela olmu\u015f ispanyollar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na. Ayaklanmalar, isyanlar ac\u0131mas\u0131zca bast\u0131r\u0131l\u0131p parlak bir s\u00f6m\u00fcrge kentinin harc\u0131 kar\u0131lm\u0131\u015f kanla.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Yar\u0131madan\u0131n do\u011fu ucundan ba\u015flayan ve balta girmemi\u015f bir orman\u0131n ortas\u0131nda d\u00fcmd\u00fcz uzanan otoyolda birbu\u00e7uk saat s\u00fcren yolculu\u011fumuzun sonunda vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bu kasabada bardaktan bo\u015fan\u0131rcas\u0131na ya\u011fan tropikal bir ya\u011fmur kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131 bizi. <\/span>Y\u0131llar\u0131n renklerini solduramad\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00a0i\u015flemeli parke ta\u015flar\u0131yla g\u00f6zalan, <\/span>geni\u015f avlulu <\/span>kolonyal d\u00f6nem yap\u0131s\u0131 \u00a0otelimizin keyfini \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131rken ya\u011fmurun dinmesini bekledik bir s\u00fcre. \u00a0Ya\u011fmurun ard\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z sokaklarda su birikintilerinden atlaya atlaya etraf\u0131 ke\u015ffe \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k sonra. <\/span><\/p>\n

Izgara dilimi gibi dizilmi\u015f sokaklar\u0131n kesi\u015fti\u011fi b\u00fcy\u00fck meydana ula\u015f\u0131nca tropikal a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n s\u00fcsledi\u011fi park\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda bir ta\u015f kilise kasaban\u0131n tevazusuna z\u0131t bi\u00e7imde g\u00f6rkemle y\u00fckseliyor. Ama d\u0131\u015fardaki g\u00f6rkemden eser yok, aksine fakirlik derecesinde bir sadelik var, San Servacio Katedrali’<\/em><\/strong>nin i\u00e7inde. \u00a0Katedralin hemen \u00f6n\u00fcndeki parkta ise sat\u0131c\u0131lar,<\/span> sevgililer, \u00e7ocuklar, ya\u015fl\u0131lar…<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Bu meydana on dakikal\u0131k bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f mesafesinde kentin di\u011fer \u00f6nemli dini simgesi yer al\u0131yor. San Bernardino de Siena Manast\u0131r\u0131<\/strong>. <\/em> San Bernardino 15.y\u00fczy\u0131lda ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f bir Fransisken rahip. Kad\u0131nlara, yahudilere ve e\u015fcinsellere d\u00fc\u015fmanl\u0131\u011f\u0131yla tan\u0131nan bir ba\u011fnaz iken \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonra aziz ilan edilmi\u015f. Meksika’yla bir ilgisi olmamas\u0131na ra\u011fmen d\u00f6nemin kolonyal egemenleri i\u00e7in pek muteber olmal\u0131 ki Amerika k\u0131tas\u0131ndaki ilk manast\u0131r ve kilise bu \u0130talyan rahip ad\u0131na in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. \u00a0Manast\u0131r\u0131n harap ta\u015f duvarlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6tesinde \u00e7ocuklar, k\u0131z-erkek kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k futbol oynuyorlar ba\u011f\u0131ra \u00e7a\u011f\u0131ra.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

Valladolid<\/em> sokaklar\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131rken k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck d\u00fckkanlar\u0131nda hayat gailesiyle me\u015fgul bakkal\u0131, berberi,\u00a0ayakkab\u0131c\u0131s\u0131, terzisi, velhas\u0131l\u0131 muhtelif k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck esnaf merakla izliyor gezginleri. Ekserisine pek faydas\u0131 yok turistin ama, gerek el yap\u0131m\u0131 deri sandaletler gerekse y\u00f6reye \u00f6zg\u00fc incecik iplerden \u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f rengarenk hamaklar m\u00fc\u015fteri \u00e7ekiyor bir nebze de olsa. Yucatan<\/em>‘da en uygun al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f noktalar\u0131ndan biri Valladolid.<\/em> \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc s\u0131radan turistler i\u00e7in sadece bir ge\u00e7i\u015f noktas\u0131, dolay\u0131s\u0131yla bildik anlamda turistik bir yer de\u011fil. \u00a0Yar\u0131madan\u0131n do\u011fusundan ya da bat\u0131s\u0131ndan tur otob\u00fcsleriyle gelenler \u00a0Valladolid<\/em>‘den ge\u00e7ip gidiyorlar oyalanmadan, k\u0131rk-k\u0131rkbe\u015f dakikal\u0131k mesafedeki antik maya kenti\u00a0Chichen Itza<\/em>‘ya. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Oysa \u00e7evresindeki di\u011fer maya kentleri ve cenote<\/em><\/strong>‘leri ile ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir \u00e7ekim merkezi buras\u0131. T\u00fcrk\u00e7eye obruk olarak \u00e7evrilebilecek, Yucatan<\/em>‘a \u00f6zg\u00fc bu co\u011frafi olu\u015fumlar yer alt\u0131 sular\u0131 ile beslenen kapal\u0131 ya da a\u00e7\u0131k do\u011fal havuzlar. Derinlikleri 30-40 metre olabiliyor.\u00a0Za\u00e7i<\/em> senotu, d\u00fcmd\u00fcz bir kentin ortas\u0131nda birden \u00a0kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kan\u00a0\u00a0bir \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fcnt\u00fcde\u00a0yemye\u015fil bir \u00f6rt\u00fcyle \u00e7evrelenmi\u015f 10-15 metre \u00e7apl\u0131\u00a0 bir su\u00a0 birikintisi. D\u0131\u015far\u0131daki kavurucu s\u0131caktan bunalanlara\u00a0serinlemek i\u00e7in en iyi se\u00e7enek. Yucatan<\/em>‘da pek \u00e7ok senot var. \u00d6zellikle antik maya yerle\u015fimlerinin hemen hepsinde bir tane bulunuyor. Mayalar i\u00e7in senotlar en \u00f6nemli su kayna\u011f\u0131, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u00a0yar\u0131mada nehir ve g\u00f6l gibi al\u0131\u015f\u0131ld\u0131k tatl\u0131 su kaynaklar\u0131ndan yoksun.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>Za\u00e7i<\/em> senotu daha \u00e7ok kentin yerlilerine hitap ederken b\u00f6lgede turistlere y\u00f6nelik pek \u00e7ok senot bulunmakta. Hepsine tek tek girip \u00e7\u0131kmak hem zaman hem de para olarak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc <\/span>Za\u00e7i<\/em>‘ye sadece yirmi pesoya girilirken turistiklerde giri\u015f \u00fccreti\u00a0 de 4-5 kat daha pahal\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a>Yine de b\u00f6lgedeki \u00fcnl\u00fc senotlardan birine girmeyi deniyoruz, neredeyse sabah\u0131n k\u00f6r\u00fcnde. Saat 08:00′ de a\u00e7\u0131lan senota gitti\u011fimizde kimseler yok. Giri\u015f \u00fccretini \u00f6deyip bir ma\u011faraya y\u00f6neliyoruz. A\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya do\u011fru inen basamaklar\u0131n g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc\u00a0a\u00e7\u0131kl\u0131kta yapay \u0131\u015f\u0131kla ayd\u0131nlat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f dipsiz bir su birikintisi. Tepedeki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck a\u00e7\u0131kl\u0131ktan sadece\u00a0g\u00fcn \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u0131zm\u0131yor, ku\u015f s\u00fcr\u00fcleri de girip \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor ma\u011faraya, kimbilir \u00a0serinlemek i\u00e7in belki. Fakat buran\u0131n esas sakinleri yapay \u0131\u015f\u0131kla rengini de\u011fi\u015ftiren berrak suyun i\u00e7indeki\u00a0siyah bal\u0131klar. K\u00f6r olduklar\u0131 rivayet edilen bu\u00a0 yarat\u0131klar uzun b\u0131y\u0131klar\u0131yla sanki minyat\u00fcr birer yay\u0131n bal\u0131\u011f\u0131. Sabah\u0131n k\u00f6r saatinde, kimsenin olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir ma\u011farada, dipsiz bir suda, kapkara bal\u0131klar\u0131n ortas\u0131nda y\u00fczmek ba\u015fta \u00fcrk\u00fct\u00fcc\u00fc gelse de suyun \u00fczerine gerilmi\u015f halatlara tutunarak ilerleyince insan ortam\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fcs\u00fcne kap\u0131l\u0131yor bir s\u00fcre sonra. \u00a0Bu erken saatte bile d\u0131\u015far\u0131da nemli, bunalt\u0131c\u0131 bir hava varken serin sularda\u00a0bir ba\u015f\u0131na y\u00fczmek acaip bir duygu. Hele ilerleyen saatlerde \u00e7oluk \u00e7ocuk\u00a0bir turist kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n dolu\u015faca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bilince. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Kalabal\u0131\u011fa kalmadan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z ma\u011faran\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda \u00a0hindistan cevizi satan Meksikal\u0131 bir aileye rastlad\u0131k. Kocaman ye\u015fil yumrular al\u0131\u015fk\u0131n oldu\u011fumuz kahverengi sert meyvelerden \u00e7ok farkl\u0131yd\u0131. Ailenin babas\u0131 elindeki palayla ye\u015fil yuvarla\u011f\u0131n tepesini a\u00e7\u0131p bir kam\u0131\u015f yerle\u015ftirip sundu bize. Hindistan cevizinin s\u00fct\u00fc bitince bu kez ikiye b\u00f6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc meyvenin ortas\u0131ndan o bildik beyaz\u0131yla hindistan cevizini \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131p bir torbaya doldurdu. \u00dczerine tuz ve k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 biber serpeledikten sonra \u00fclkemizde fahi\u015f fiyata sat\u0131lan misket limonlar\u0131ndan (lime) <\/em>bir dolu s\u0131k\u0131p naylon torban\u0131n i\u00e7inde iyice kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131ktan sonra ikram etti. Her zaman tatl\u0131yla \u00f6zde\u015fle\u015ftirdi\u011fimiz hindistan cevizini ac\u0131-ek\u015fi-tuzlu yemek ilgin\u00e7ti. Ne yalan s\u00f6yleyeyim ba\u015fta iyi bir fikir gibi gelmese de tad\u0131na bakt\u0131ktan sonra\u00a0bu denemeden memnun kald\u0131k.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yucatan<\/em>‘dan ayr\u0131l\u0131p\u00a0\u00fclkenin en do\u011fu eyaleti olan <\/span>Quintana Roo<\/em>‘ya vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 bir Meksika kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131 bizi. Uzun bir sahil \u015feridi boyunca palmiye ve hindistan cevizi a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131yla s\u00fcsl\u00fc bulvarlarda yo\u011fun bir tatilci trafi\u011finin ortas\u0131nda yol alarak k\u0131y\u0131da dizili l\u00fcks otellerin arkas\u0131nda sakl\u0131 Meksika k\u00f6rfezini g\u00f6zucuyla bile g\u00f6remeden <\/span>Cancun’<\/em>a vard\u0131k.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Cancun<\/em> turistler i\u00e7in yarat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir merkez. Bir taraf\u0131nda Meksika k\u00f6rfezinin turkuaz rengi mavi ye\u015fil sular\u0131 di\u011fer taraf\u0131nda pek \u00e7ok tatl\u0131 su lag\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fcn yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 25 kilometrelik upuzun aday\u0131 doldurmu\u015f \u00a0\u00e7ok y\u0131ld\u0131zl\u0131 oteller, al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezleri, restoranlar, gece kl\u00fcpleri. Mayalar\u0131n torunlar\u0131 ise buralar\u0131n asgari \u00fccrete talim eden \u00a0\u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar\u0131. Cancun<\/em> kent merkezine gitmek \u00fczere\u00a0 bindi\u011fimiz belediye otob\u00fcs\u00fc \u00a0-ola ki turistler biner diye herhalde- yeni ve bak\u0131ml\u0131yd\u0131 ama, otob\u00fcs\u00fcn esas m\u00fc\u015fterileri yine \u00a0l\u00fcks otellerin \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar\u0131yd\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Turizm merkezinden kent merkezine, ba\u015fka deyi\u015fle turizm adas\u0131ndan anakaraya ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz anda ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan manzara de\u011fi\u015fikli\u011fi \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131yd\u0131. \u00dczerlerinde Collectivo<\/em> yazan k\u0131r\u0131k d\u00f6k\u00fck minib\u00fcsler \u00fclkemizden iyi bildi\u011fimiz dolmu\u015flar olarak seyr\u00fcsefer ederken kentin di\u011fer b\u00f6lgelerine hizmet veren belediye otob\u00fcsleri de bariz eski ve bak\u0131ms\u0131zd\u0131. Otob\u00fcs\u00fcn son dura\u011f\u0131nda inip de y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda ise bak\u0131ms\u0131z sokaklarda, sa\u011fl\u0131ks\u0131z \u00e7ocuklar, yoksul insanlar \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za. \u00c7in mal\u0131na rastlamadan al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f yap\u0131labilecek ucuz \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131lar ve elbette turistlere mutlaka bir \u015fey satmak isteyen sat\u0131c\u0131lar. Bir mal\u0131n fiyat\u0131n\u0131 sordu\u011funuzda onu almadan ayr\u0131lman\u0131z imkans\u0131z. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc ilk duydu\u011funuz fiyata dudak b\u00fck\u00fcp ilerledi\u011finizde yan\u0131n\u0131zda biten sat\u0131c\u0131 hemen yar\u0131 fiyat\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor, ona da eyvallah etmezseniz bir indirim daha, bakt\u0131 \u00e7ok inat\u00e7\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131n\u0131z, son sorusu “Ka\u00e7 para verirsin? “<\/strong> Laf olsun diye bir mebla\u011f s\u00f6ylerseniz e\u011fer, \u00fcst\u00fcne s\u0131k\u0131 bir pazarl\u0131kla, \u00a0on -yirmi peso daha ekleyip i\u015fi ba\u011fl\u0131yor mutlaka.<\/span><\/p>\n

Cancun<\/em> k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131 pek \u00e7ok l\u00fcks otel ve rezidansa ev sahipli\u011fi yapsa da kumsallar herkese a\u00e7\u0131k, en az\u0131ndan g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015fte. \u0130nce uzun adan\u0131n di\u011fer yan\u0131nda yer alan lag\u00fcne uzanan kara par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131n hemen hepsine birer AVM kondurulmu\u015f. Etrafta bu devasa merkezlerden ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z d\u00fckkanlar ve lokantalar da var. Meksika mutfa\u011f\u0131 bilindi\u011fi \u00fczere ac\u0131n\u0131n egemenli\u011finde. Hemen her restoranda yemek ile birlikte biri ye\u015fil biri k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 iki farkl\u0131 sos ikram ediliyor. Tortilla ad\u0131n\u0131 verdikleri m\u0131s\u0131r unundan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck lava\u015f ekmekleri de olmazsa olmazlardan.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/em><\/em><\/em><\/em><\/em><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/em><\/em><\/span><\/em>En ilgin\u00e7 olan\u0131 ise kaynana dili olarak bildi\u011fimiz ye\u015fil kakt\u00fcslerden yap\u0131lan yemekti. Meksikal\u0131lar\u0131n nopalitos<\/strong><\/em> olarak adland\u0131rd\u0131klar\u0131 kakt\u00fcs yapraklar\u0131n\u0131n ek\u015fi kaygan tad\u0131 merakl\u0131s\u0131na g\u00fczel olmal\u0131 ki s\u00fcpermarketlerin sebze reyonlar\u0131nda bolca bulunuyor. \u00a0Gezinirken g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz d\u00f6ner tezgahlar\u0131 “etrafta memleketten biri mi var?” sorusunu sordursa da al\u0131\u015f\u0131k olduklar\u0131m\u0131zdan farkl\u0131, k\u0131pk\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131, muhtemelen ac\u0131dan. Oturup biraz \u00a0eli y\u00fcz\u00fc d\u00fczg\u00fcn bir yerde yemek yerseniz <\/span>Mariachi<\/em> olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan m\u00fczisyenlerin olu\u015fturdu\u011fu folk gruplar\u0131 yan\u0131n\u0131zda bitiveriyor, ama s\u00f6yledikleri her \u015fark\u0131 bah\u015fi\u015fi \u00a0hakediyor. Bu m\u00fczisyenlerin \u00f6zg\u00fcn giysileri, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck orkestralar\u0131n\u0131n yerel \u00e7alg\u0131lar\u0131, Meksikal\u0131lara \u00f6zg\u00fc g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir han\u00e7ereden s\u00fcz\u00fclen \u015fark\u0131lar buran\u0131n keyfini \u00e7\u0131karmak i\u00e7in bire bir.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
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<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Cancun<\/em> sahilinin az ilerisindeki Kad\u0131nlar Adas\u0131, Isla Mujeres<\/em> b\u00f6lgede konaklayanlar i\u00e7in \u00f6nemli bir ziyaret noktas\u0131. Adada \u00a0pek \u00e7ok \u0131v\u0131r z\u0131v\u0131r\u0131n sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 hediyelik e\u015fya satan d\u00fckkanlar d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda pek bir \u015fey yok ama \u00e7evresinde muhte\u015fem bir deniz ve mercan resifleri var. K\u0131y\u0131dan hareket eden katamaran tipi tekneler resif b\u00f6lgesinde uzun bir y\u00fczme molas\u0131 veriyor. Deniz g\u00f6zl\u00fckleri, \u015fnorkeller ve can yelekleri \u015firketten. Can yele\u011fi zorunlu \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc iki metrelik s\u0131\u011f sularda yay\u0131lan mercanlara yakla\u015fmak yasak. Sahil g\u00fcvenlik tekneleri arada bir yana\u015f\u0131p denetliyorlar. Dibe dalmak \u015fart de\u011fil, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc zaten \u00e7ok derin olmayan suda, dipteki mercanlardan \u00e7ok etraf\u0131nda gezinen rengarenk bal\u0131klar\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcne dal\u0131yor insan ister istemez. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Adan\u0131n tropikal plajlar\u0131nda da manzara farkl\u0131 de\u011fil, tek t\u00fck de olsa resiflerde dola\u015fan bal\u0131klar\u0131n benzerleri bu k\u0131y\u0131larda da geziniyor. Arkada uzun ince g\u00f6vdeleriyle dizilen palmiyelerin \u00f6n\u00fcnde bembeyaz kumlar\u0131yla uzanan sahilde yatmak, turkuaz maviliklerde serinlemek \u00f6mre de\u011fer.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00c7ok geni\u015f bir co\u011frafyaya yay\u0131l\u0131yor Meksika. \u0130ki okyanusun ortas\u0131nda, kendi ba\u015f\u0131na bir k\u0131ta neredeyse. Birbirine pek de uzak olmayan iki \u015fehirde bile \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 insanlar, apayr\u0131 hayatlar, bamba\u015fka d\u00fcnyalar var.<\/span><\/p>\n

Hayata ve do\u011faya dair ke\u015ffedecek \u00e7ok \u015fey var \u00a0bu topraklarda,\u00a0merakl\u0131s\u0131na elbet.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

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  Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan M\u00fczik: Chavela Vargas \u00a0– Las\u00a0Ciudades* * \u015eehirler Hani baz\u0131 ebeveynler vard\u0131r, \u00e7ocuklar\u0131na \u00f6yle isimler koyarlar ki, ya bir d\u00f6nemin keskin ideolojik y\u00f6nelimlerini yans\u0131t\u0131r veya a\u011f\u0131r bir sorumluluk y\u00fckler sahibinin omuzlar\u0131na. \u00a0Buras\u0131 da \u00f6yle i\u015fte.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3220","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-orta-amerika"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3220","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3220"}],"version-history":[{"count":409,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3220\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3618,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3220\/revisions\/3618"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3220"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3220"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3220"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}