{"id":2752,"date":"2012-05-31T15:21:13","date_gmt":"2012-05-31T14:21:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=2752"},"modified":"2026-07-26T22:51:06","modified_gmt":"2026-07-26T19:51:06","slug":"grotta-gigante-miramare-vesaire-trieste","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=2752","title":{"rendered":"Grotta Gigante…Miramare…vesaire: Trieste"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

M\u00fczik: <\/span><\/em>\u015eeytan\u0131n Teranesi <\/strong>–<\/span>Il Trillo del Diavolo <\/em><\/p>\n

(Beste:\u00a0Giuseppe Tartini\/<\/em>Keman: Itzhak Perlman)<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\nhttp:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/Devil's%20trill.mp3<\/a><\/audio>\n

Yar\u0131 karanl\u0131k dehlizde ilerledik\u00e7e ad\u0131m ad\u0131m uzakla\u015f\u0131yorduk kavurucu yaz s\u0131ca\u011f\u0131ndan. G\u00f6zlerimiz lo\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011fa al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131nda a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya inen basamaklar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, <\/span>“koca\u00a0delik<\/em>” <\/span>t\u00fcm g\u00f6rkemiyle <\/span> kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zdayd\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Kenti su kaynaklar\u0131na kavu\u015fturmak i\u00e7in yap\u0131lan bir ara\u015ft\u0131rma s\u0131ras\u0131nda, ilk kez <\/span> 1840 y\u0131l\u0131nda <\/span> varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n fark\u0131na var\u0131lan bu ma\u011fara, al\u0131\u015f\u0131lagelmi\u015f ma\u011faralardan farkl\u0131 kocaman<\/span> tek bir<\/span> galeri. <\/span><\/p>\n

1908’de ilk ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda 4000 mum ile ayd\u0131nlat\u0131lan ma\u011fara o g\u00fcnden bu yana karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ve \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n etkileyici birlikteli\u011fiyle a\u011f\u0131rlamakta konuklar\u0131n\u0131. \u00a0Bir zamanlar d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck gezi ma\u011faras\u0131 olarak tescillenen Grotta Gigante<\/strong><\/em>, her \u015feyin en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fcne sahip olma iddias\u0131ndaki yeni d\u00fcnyadan gelen ke\u015fiflerle bu \u00fcnvan\u0131n\u0131 yitirmi\u015f olsa da eski d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ma\u011faras\u0131 olarak ma\u011frur ve ayakta. Y\u00fczlerce basamak inerek ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z ana galeri 100 metreye varan y\u00fcksekli\u011fi, 76 metrelik geni\u015fli\u011fi ve 130 metrelik uzunlu\u011fuyla muhte\u015fem bir yeralt\u0131 manzaras\u0131 sunuyor.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \u0130nsan\u0131n yery\u00fcz\u00fcndeki varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n hi\u00e7li\u011fi, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcmenli\u011fi daha iyi alg\u0131lan\u0131yor g\u00fcn \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n girmedi\u011fi bu koca delikte. Yapay ayd\u0131nlatman\u0131n etkisiyle g\u00f6lgeler aras\u0131nda varl\u0131\u011f\u0131 belirginle\u015fen sark\u0131tlar, dikitler ve bilumum yeralt\u0131 \u015fekilleri tarifi g\u00fc\u00e7 bir duyguya sevkediyor insan\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

Tavandan zemine uzanan beyaz, iki yapay s\u00fct\u00fcn \u00a0devasa bir sismograf\u0131n par\u00e7alar\u0131ym\u0131\u015f. Ay\u0131n denizler \u00fczerindeki med cezir etkisinin yer kabu\u011funu da etkiledi\u011fini, ancak yerk\u00fcredeki gelgitlerin \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn \u00e7ok zor oldu\u011funu, \u0131s\u0131 ve y\u00fckseklik a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan uygunlu\u011fu nedeniyle se\u00e7ilen bu ma\u011faran\u0131n jeodezi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan da \u00f6nemli bir merkez oldu\u011funu bu vesileyle \u00f6\u011frendik.<\/span><\/p>\n

Ma\u011faradan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca az ilerideki duraktan ge\u00e7en belediye otob\u00fcs\u00fcyle kent merkezine do\u011frudan ve h\u0131zl\u0131ca ula\u015fmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olsa da aksi istikamette bir ka\u00e7 durak gidip Slovenya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndaki Villa Opicina’dan hareket eden tramvay ile yolculuk yapmak \u00e7ok daha keyifli. Epeyce y\u00fcksek bir tepeden a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya, teleferik tramvay aras\u0131 bir d\u00fczenekle a\u011f\u0131r a\u011f\u0131r ilerleyen bu eski tahta vagonun pencerelerinden etram\u0131z\u0131 saran ye\u015filliklerin aras\u0131nda \u00a0g\u00f6z k\u0131rpar gibi bir g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcp bir kaybolan masmavi Trieste k\u00f6rfezinin seyrine doyum olmuyor. B\u00fcy\u00fck kentlerde bir yerden bir yere ula\u015fmak i\u00e7in habire daha h\u0131zl\u0131 bir yol veya ara\u00e7 pe\u015findeyken burada yava\u015f\u0131 daha yava\u015f k\u0131lman\u0131n yolunu ar\u0131yor insan.\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130mparatorlu\u011fun nadir k\u0131y\u0131 yerle\u015fimlerinden biri olmas\u0131 sebebiyle Avusturya-Macaristan’\u0131n \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir liman kenti olan Trieste Birinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131’n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan \u0130talya’ya ba\u011flan\u0131nca \u00f6nemini ciddi bi\u00e7imde yitirmi\u015f, \u00a0nispeten \u00f6nemsiz bir s\u0131n\u0131r kenti oluvermi\u015f. Oysa eski g\u00fcnlerinde Viyana, Budape\u015fte, Prag gibi imparatorlu\u011fun g\u00f6zde kentlerinden, edebiyat ve m\u00fczik i\u00e7in \u00e7a\u011f\u0131n \u00f6nemli merkezlerinden biriymi\u015f. <\/span><\/p>\n

Her dilde farkl\u0131 bir t\u0131n\u0131yla seslendiriliyor kentin ismi. \u0130talyanlar Trieste<\/em> derlerken, Slovenler ve H\u0131rvatlar Trst<\/em>, Almanlar Triest<\/em> olarak adland\u0131r\u0131yorlar bu co\u011frafyay\u0131. Birinci d\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131 sonras\u0131 \u0130talya’da y\u00fckselen fa\u015fist e\u011filim n\u00fcfusun d\u00f6rtte birini olu\u015fturan Sloven halka k\u00f6t\u00fc g\u00fcnler ya\u015fatm\u0131\u015f. Slovence’nin kullan\u0131lmas\u0131 yasaklanm\u0131\u015f, Slovenlerin i\u015fletti\u011fi d\u00fckkanlar yak\u0131l\u0131p y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, Sloven adlar\u0131 ve soyadlar\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftirilip \u0130talyanca’ya “uygun” hale getirilmi\u015f fa\u015fizmin bildik k\u00f6t\u00fcc\u00fcl milliyet\u00e7ili\u011fiyle.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130kinci d\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131 y\u0131llar\u0131nda \u0130talyan fa\u015fistlerinin yerini naziler alm\u0131\u015f, Hitler Almanya’s\u0131n\u0131n i\u015fgal g\u00fcnleri ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f bu bahts\u0131z \u015fehirde. Nazilerin \u0130talya topraklar\u0131ndaki tek toplama kamp\u0131na da ev sahipli\u011fi yapm\u0131\u015f kent o d\u00f6nem. Yahudiler, Yugoslavlar ve anti-fa\u015fist \u0130talyanlar \u00fc\u00e7bin kurban vermi\u015f <\/span>Risiera<\/em> toplama kamp\u0131nda ama,<\/span> 1945 \u00a0bir may\u0131s\u0131nda Yugoslav partizanlar\u0131 kentin b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 ele ge\u00e7irmeyi ba\u015farm\u0131\u015f. <\/span>1947’de <\/span>Paris Bar\u0131\u015f antla\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan \u00a0Birle\u015fmi\u015f Milletler Serbest B\u00f6lgesi olarak otonomi kazanm\u0131\u015f Trieste bir s\u00fcreli\u011fine, fakat sonras\u0131nda da sanc\u0131lar\u0131 dinmemi\u015f. Yar\u0131s\u0131 \u0130talya’ da yar\u0131s\u0131 Yugoslavya’da kalacak \u015fekilde ikiye b\u00f6l\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f 1954’de. Zor zahmet, ancak 1975 y\u0131l\u0131nda kesinle\u015febilmi\u015f \u00a0Trieste’nin \u0130talyan kimli\u011fini \u00e7izen s\u0131n\u0131rlar.\u00a0Bu a\u011f\u0131r tarihi miras nedeniyle olsa gerek, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn klasik \u0130talyan kentlerinden farkl\u0131, kozmopolit bir havas\u0131 var. Ve belki de bu y\u00fczden kentin ba\u015fl\u0131ca meydan\u0131na <\/span>Piazza Unita\u00a0d’Italia<\/em> yani “\u0130talya’n\u0131n Birli\u011fi” ad\u0131n\u0131n verilmesi.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Liman\u0131n k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki merkez istasyonun \u00f6n\u00fcnden bindi\u011fimiz belediye otob\u00fcs\u00fc hafta i\u00e7i olmas\u0131na \u00a0ve y\u00f6n\u00fc kent d\u0131\u015f\u0131na do\u011fru olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen h\u0131nca h\u0131n\u00e7 kalabal\u0131kt\u0131. \u00a0Ya\u015flar\u0131 ve g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcmleri itibariyle emekli ve ev han\u0131m\u0131 oldu\u011fu anla\u015f\u0131lan insan kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6nlerinde plaj sandalyeleri, yanlar\u0131nda piknik sepetleriyle sabah\u0131n erken saatlerinde doldurmu\u015ftu otob\u00fcs\u00fc. \u00dc\u00e7 be\u015f durak sonra <\/span>birer iki\u015fer <\/span>inmeye ba\u015flayan kalabal\u0131k yolun yan\u0131ba\u015f\u0131nda uzanan halk plajlar\u0131na y\u00f6neldi. <\/span>Ger\u00e7i bu k\u0131y\u0131 \u015feridine plaj demek pek do\u011fru de\u011fil, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u00a0\u00fczeri d\u00fczle\u015ftirilmi\u015f kayal\u0131klardan denize inen merdivenler, ara ara yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f du\u015flar ve soyunma kabinleriydi yol boyunca uzanan. \u00dcstelik be\u015f para \u00f6demeden, herkesin kullan\u0131m\u0131na a\u00e7\u0131k; kimbilir sosyalizm g\u00fcnlerinden kalma bir al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131k \u00a0belki, ne bir “beach club” <\/em>tabelas\u0131 ,<\/em> ne \u00a0de bilet kesen bir g\u00f6revli.<\/span><\/p>\n

Otob\u00fcs\u00fcn son dura\u011f\u0131 bir sayfiye kasabas\u0131: Grignano.<\/em> Denize naz\u0131r bal\u0131k lokantalar\u0131, \u00a0yat liman\u0131 ve kocaman bir ye\u015filli\u011fin i\u00e7inde \u00a0“denizin g\u00f6z\u00fc<\/strong>“: Miramare<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Adriyatik’in masmavi \u00a0sular\u0131na uzanan bu g\u00f6rkemli \u00a0yap\u0131 imparator Franz Joseph’in karde\u015fi ar\u015fid\u00fck Ferdinand Maximilian’\u0131n kendisi ve e\u015fi Charlotte i\u00e7in yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir saray. Yap\u0131m\u0131na bizzat nezaret etti\u011fi bu mekan\u0131n keyfini s\u00fcrebildi\u011fi s\u00f6ylenemez pek. Fransa ve \u0130spanya’n\u0131n, Amerikan i\u00e7 sava\u015f\u0131n\u0131 f\u0131rsat bilip yeni d\u00fcnyada s\u00f6z sahibi olma planlar\u0131 yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u0131ralarda 3.Napolyon ile 2.\u0130sabel’in destekledi\u011fi Meksika’l\u0131 monar\u015fi yanl\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n kendisine sundu\u011fu imparatorluk teklifini bu sarayda <\/span>kabul ederek Meksika imparatoru olmu\u015f Maximillian. G\u00f6steri\u015fli bir t\u00f6renle edindi\u011fi imparatorluk tac\u0131n\u0131 ise \u00fc\u00e7 y\u0131l sonra \u00a0Meksika’da cumhuriyet\u00e7ilerin elinde b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015f, hayat\u0131yla birlikte. Rivayete g\u00f6re teklifi kabul etmesinde imparator olman\u0131n dayan\u0131lmaz \u00e7ekicili\u011fi kadar Brezilya ya\u011fmur ormanlar\u0131n\u0131 ke\u015ffetme arzusu da etkili olmu\u015f. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc ar\u015fid\u00fck\u00fcn gen\u00e7lik y\u0131llar\u0131nda edindi\u011fi botanik merak\u0131 pek me\u015fhurmu\u015f. <\/span>O y\u00fczden zaman\u0131nda kayal\u0131klar\u0131n ve \u00e7\u0131plak topraklar\u0131n yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 alanda \u00a0\u00e7e\u015fit \u00e7e\u015fit a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131 ve bitkileri ve \u00e7i\u00e7ekleriyle g\u00f6rkemli bir bah\u00e7e ve yemye\u015fil bir park yer al\u0131yor g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span>Bir zamanlar Maximillian’\u0131n at gezintileri yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 patikalarda y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fcp f\u0131skiyeli k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck havuzlar\u0131n, \u00e7i\u00e7ek tarhlar\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131ndaki \u00a0dinlenme alanlar\u0131nda soluklanan ziyaret\u00e7ilere kat\u0131ld\u0131k \u00f6nce, sonra g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde deniz canl\u0131lar\u0131 i\u00e7in do\u011fal koruma alan\u0131 ilan edilmi\u015f sular\u0131n k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda oturup denizde bir g\u00fcruh halinde dola\u015fan \u00a0bal\u0131k s\u00fcr\u00fclerini izledik. Bir u\u00e7tan bir uca y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek dola\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bu parktan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca kent sakinlerinin yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi deniz kenar\u0131ndaki kayal\u0131klarda ald\u0131k solu\u011fu. Trieste k\u00f6rfezinin serin sular\u0131nda att\u0131k \u00a0yorgunlu\u011fumuzu onlar gibi.<\/span><\/p>\n

Seyahat acenteleri, tur kat\u0131l\u0131mc\u0131lar\u0131 i\u00e7in pop\u00fcler bir g\u00fczergah olmasa da gezginler i\u00e7in keyifli bir kent Trieste.<\/span><\/p>\n

Kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc kimli\u011fiyle biraz Akdenizli, <\/span>biraz Balkan. \u00a0Bir d\u00f6nem bu kentte sessiz sedas\u0131z \u0130ngilizce \u00f6\u011fretmenli\u011fi yapan <\/span>J<\/span>ames Joyce gibi kimileri i\u00e7inse bir inziva noktas\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

Deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131 bir kentin en \u00f6nemli avantaj\u0131n\u0131 bol bol kullanabilece\u011finiz bir \u015fehir. Dar sokaklar\u0131nda aylak aylak dola\u015f\u0131p kaybolmak \u00f6nce, sonra <\/span>denize kavu\u015fup <\/span>yolunu buluvermek yeniden.<\/span><\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam ufukta ufal\u0131p yok olan \u00a0k\u0131z\u0131l yuvarla\u011f\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda<\/span> oturup masan\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na, Akdenizin o bildik esintisiyle \u00fcrperince yaz s\u0131ca\u011f\u0131nda; \u00e7ok tan\u0131d\u0131k bir kentte<\/span>, pek a\u015fina bir g\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131ndaym\u0131\u015f gibi<\/span> keyfini s\u00fcrebilirsiniz kerahat vaktinin.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

[ti_audio media=”2948″ autoplay=”1″ ]<\/p>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yaz\u0131 ve foto\u011fraflar: Y\u00fcce Ayhan M\u00fczik: \u015eeytan\u0131n Teranesi –Il Trillo del Diavolo (Beste:\u00a0Giuseppe Tartini\/Keman: Itzhak Perlman) \u00a0 Yar\u0131 karanl\u0131k dehlizde ilerledik\u00e7e ad\u0131m ad\u0131m uzakla\u015f\u0131yorduk kavurucu yaz s\u0131ca\u011f\u0131ndan. G\u00f6zlerimiz lo\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011fa al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131nda a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya inen basamaklar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, “koca\u00a0delik” t\u00fcm g\u00f6rkemiyle kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zdayd\u0131.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2752","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-avrupa","czr-hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2752","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2752"}],"version-history":[{"count":287,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2752\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10075,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2752\/revisions\/10075"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2752"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2752"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2752"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}