{"id":1673,"date":"2011-10-25T16:21:10","date_gmt":"2011-10-25T15:21:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=1673"},"modified":"2012-01-02T22:34:46","modified_gmt":"2012-01-02T21:34:46","slug":"mezarlik-senfonisi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/?p=1673","title":{"rendered":"Mezarl\u0131k Senfonisi"},"content":{"rendered":"

M\u00fczik: Bedrich Smetana “Vltava”<\/strong>
\n <\/a>Yaz\u0131 ve Foto\u011fraflar :\u00a0Y\u00fcce Ayhan<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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So\u011fuk ve kasvetli bir pazar sabah\u0131n\u0131, \u201cahmak \u0131slatan\u201d bir ya\u011fmur alt\u0131nda, <\/span>kentin uzak bir k\u00f6\u015fesinde <\/span>mezarl\u0131k gezmeye ay\u0131rmak pek ak\u0131ll\u0131 i\u015fi olmasa gerek.<\/span><\/p>\n


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Gotik mimarinin insan\u0131 ezmek i\u00e7in tasarlanm\u0131\u015f upuzun iki kulesiyle yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131m\u0131zda dikilen katedralin bah\u00e7esindeki mezarl\u0131kta, garip bir tezatla huzur veren kabirler aras\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131yoruz, mezar ta\u015flar\u0131nda tan\u0131d\u0131k isimler arayarak. Buras\u0131 Prag\u2019ta ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f pek \u00e7ok \u00fcnl\u00fc ismin yatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Vhyserad<\/em> mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131. Mezarl\u0131ktan ziyade bir heykel m\u00fczesi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcnde. \u00a0Bir \u00e7o\u011fu mermer ha\u00e7larla veya dini heykellerle donat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olsa da fazlas\u0131yla d\u00fcnyevi, \u00f6zg\u00fcn an\u0131t mezarlar da az de\u011fil.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Bir ta\u015f duvar\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde yer alan bronz b\u00fcst\u00fcn alt\u0131ndaki sar\u0131 yald\u0131z yaz\u0131 ili\u015fiyor g\u00f6z\u00fcme birden. Bildik bir isim, tan\u0131d\u0131k bir sima: Anton Dvorak. Kendimce bir hu\u015fu i\u00e7inde \u201cYeni D\u00fcnya Senfonisi\u201dni an\u0131msamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken katedralin \u00e7anlar\u0131 oyunbozanl\u0131k yap\u0131yor. Fakat s\u0131radan bir pazar ayini \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131s\u0131 de\u011fil bu. Ardarda \u00e7\u0131nlayan onlarca \u00e7an\u0131n t\u0131n\u0131s\u0131ndan Smetana\u2019n\u0131n unutulmaz senfonisi \u00a0Vltava\u2019<\/em>n\u0131n ezgileri yay\u0131l\u0131yor etrafa. Bu ho\u015f tesad\u00fcf, \u00a0gri g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn, so\u011fu\u011fun, r\u00fczgar\u0131n, ya\u011fmurun elbirli\u011fiyle yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 gam ve kasaveti yok ediyor aniden. Keyifli bir pazar konserindeyiz sanki. Hep birlikte m\u0131r\u0131ldanarak e\u015flik ediyoruz \u00e7anlar\u0131n melodisine. Bu k\u0131sa ama keyifli konserin ard\u0131ndan, ya\u015fl\u0131 me\u015felerin alt\u0131nda uzanan koskoca park\u0131n i\u00e7inde buldu\u011fumuz bir kafeteryaya oturup Becherovka<\/em> ile i\u00e7imizi \u0131s\u0131tabiliriz art\u0131k Vhyserad<\/em> kalesini terk etmeden \u00f6nce.<\/span><\/p>\n


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Orta Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n en turistik kentlerinden biri Prag. Tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kararak keyifle gezmek neredeyse olanaks\u0131z. Eski kent merkezi ve tarihi kalede rehberlerinin pe\u015finde ko\u015fu\u015fan turist kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 aras\u0131nda kaybolmamak i\u00e7in sabah\u0131n erken saatlerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flamak en iyisi. \u00a0Prag\u2019da gezmeye ba\u015flamak i\u00e7inse en uygun yer \u201ckale\u201d. Hradcany<\/em> ad\u0131yla bilinen bu b\u00f6lge, \u00a0Saint Vitus<\/em> katedrali ve muhtelif saraylar\u0131 ile Vltava<\/em> nehrine bakan bir tepede yer al\u0131yor. D\u00fcnyadaki en b\u00fcy\u00fck ve en me\u015fhur orta\u00e7a\u011f \u015fatosu oldu\u011fu s\u00f6ylenmekte. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Bohemya krallar\u0131n\u0131n mezarlar\u0131na ev sahipli\u011fi yapan Saint Vitus<\/em> katedrali Sicilyal\u0131 bir hristiyan azizi olan Vitus<\/em> ad\u0131na in\u015fa edilmi\u015f gotik <\/span>bir <\/span>ba\u015fyap\u0131t. T\u0131pta\u00a0Sydenham koresi<\/em> olarak tan\u0131nan bir sinir sistemi hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan muzdarip bu azizin marazi kas\u0131lmalar\u0131 \u00a0Saint Vitus Dans\u0131<\/em> olarak <\/span>tarihe <\/span>mal olmu\u015f ve azizin dans\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n, oyuncular\u0131n ve komedyenlerin hamisi kabul edilmesine yol a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f. \u00c7ek dilinde Sveti Vid<\/em> olarak an\u0131lan azizin Slav mitolojisinin pek makbul tanr\u0131s\u0131 Svetovid<\/em> ile isim benzerli\u011fi ise ilgin\u00e7 bir ba\u015fka ayr\u0131nt\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Kaleden eski kent merkezine do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcmek i\u00e7in en iyi g\u00fczergah \u00a0\u201cAlt\u0131n Yol\u201d olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan bir yan\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck evlerin s\u0131raland\u0131\u011f\u0131 arnavut kald\u0131r\u0131ml\u0131 dar sokak, Zlata Ulicka<\/em>. Asl\u0131nda kraliyet muhaf\u0131zlar\u0131 i\u00e7in in\u015fa edilen bu evlerin bir d\u00f6nem simyac\u0131lara tahsis edilmesi \u00fczerine bu ad\u0131 alm\u0131\u015f. Kafka\u2019n\u0131n da bu sokaktaki 22 numaral\u0131 evde bir s\u00fcre ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131 soka\u011f\u0131n \u00f6nemini artt\u0131r\u0131yor. Yoku\u015f a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 mahalle (Mala Strana<\/em>)\u2019de bir mola almak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olsa da turist kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 basmadan Charles k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc ge\u00e7ivermek en iyisi. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>G\u00fcn\u00fcn ilerleyen saatlerinde hediyelik e\u015fya sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n, ressamlar\u0131n, karikat\u00fcristlerin, m\u00fczisyenlerin iki yan\u0131na dizildi\u011fi bu k\u00f6pr\u00fc kararm\u0131\u015f heykelleriyle ve uzun ta\u015f kulesiyle kasvet yay\u0131yor ortal\u0131\u011fa \u00fczerinde kimseler yokken. Buradan bak\u0131p da tepede y\u00fckselen kale ve k\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 manzaray\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce Kafka\u2019n\u0131n \u015eato\u2019yu yazmamas\u0131 i\u00e7in bir sebep yokmu\u015f diye \u00a0d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeden edemiyor insan. K\u00f6pr\u00fcy\u00fc ge\u00e7tikten sonra hi\u00e7bir zaman bo\u015f bulunamayan astronomik saatin etraf\u0131ndaki g\u00f6steri\u015fli meydana a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor dar sokaklar. Saat ba\u015f\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131lan pencerelerinde azizleri g\u00f6rmek ve saatin etraf\u0131ndaki fig\u00fcrlerin hareketini izlemek i\u00e7in bekle\u015fen turistler meydan\u0131 dolduruyor her daim. Di\u011fer taraf\u0131nda da g\u00f6rkemli Tyn kilisesinin y\u00fckseldi\u011fi bu meydan\u0131 geride b\u0131rak\u0131p k\u0131sa bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fle ula\u015f\u0131lan eski Yahudi mahallesi Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n halen faal durumdaki en eski sinagoglar\u0131ndan birine ve cemaatin \u00a0\u00f6nemli ki\u015filerinin mezarlar\u0131na ev sahipli\u011fi yapmas\u0131 nedeniyle \u00f6zellikle Yahudi turistler i\u00e7in \u00f6nemli bir \u00e7ekim merkezi. <\/span><\/p>\n

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<\/a>Yahudi mahallesini de merakl\u0131lar\u0131na b\u0131rak\u0131p y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye devam edince eski kentin 13 kap\u0131s\u0131ndan biri olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015f bir ba\u015fka kule, \u00a0Prasna Praha<\/em> kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor gezginleri. Zaman\u0131nda barut deposu olarak kullan\u0131lan bu kulenin az ilerisindeki belediye saray\u0131-Obecni Dum<\/em> ise y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Prag gezisini tamamlamak i\u00e7in en iyi yer. Kente damgas\u0131n\u0131 vurmu\u015f gotik yap\u0131lar\u0131n tersine Art Nouveau<\/em> mimari \u00f6rne\u011fi bu yap\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131ndaki kafeterya s\u0131cak bir kahve e\u015fli\u011finde yorulan tabanlar\u0131 dinlendirmek ve geri kalan zamanda gidilecek Prag birahaneleri ve restoranlar\u0131na y\u00f6nelik plan yapmak i\u00e7in en uygun yer.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Bizim i\u00e7in en \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 Prag an\u0131s\u0131 ise, a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 mahalle (Mala Strana)<\/em>‘de, bir ara sokakta g\u00fc\u00e7 \u00a0bela buldu\u011fumuz restoranda, \u00c7ek mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan geleneksel tatlar ararken birden tan\u0131d\u0131k ritmlerin ezgisiyle k\u0131v\u0131rmaya ba\u015flayan \u00c7ek dans\u00f6z\u00fc <\/em>olmu\u015ftu. Anla\u015f\u0131lan kebaptan sonra g\u00f6bek dans\u0131 da iyi bir yer bulmu\u015f kendisine \u00a0art\u0131k <\/span>Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6be\u011finde<\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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[ti_audio media=”2177″ autoplay=”1″]<\/p>\n


\n<\/span><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

M\u00fczik: Bedrich Smetana “Vltava” Yaz\u0131 ve Foto\u011fraflar :\u00a0Y\u00fcce Ayhan So\u011fuk ve kasvetli bir pazar sabah\u0131n\u0131, \u201cahmak \u0131slatan\u201d bir ya\u011fmur alt\u0131nda, kentin uzak bir k\u00f6\u015fesinde mezarl\u0131k gezmeye ay\u0131rmak pek ak\u0131ll\u0131 i\u015fi olmasa gerek.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1673","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-avrupa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1673","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1673"}],"version-history":[{"count":150,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1673\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1816,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1673\/revisions\/1816"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1673"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1673"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agitoergosum.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1673"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}